The Chimney Lady

Bake Ovens and Fireplaces Enhance Outdoor Rooms
By Marge Padgitt

The outdoor room concept is very popular across the U.S., and Kansas City is no exception. Outdoor fireplaces are definitely all about aesthetics, but they do keep the area in front of them warm, too. Sitting around the fireplace on a cool fall or spring evening is more comfortable and encourages people to stay outside longer. And roasting a few marshmallows for s’mores can’t be beat.

Outdoor fireplaces can actually be built more efficiently than a standard box-style fireplace by building in a Rumford style. Count Rumford created this design in the 1700’s and it has not been improved on since. Instead of a box with straight walls, the fireplace is built with a sloping back wall, angled side walls, and smooth throat transition. This allows more heat to be directed out of the fireplace—about 40% more heat than a box style. So when planning an outdoor masonry fireplace, homeowners may want to consider this method.

Another trend that is becoming more popular is the outdoor bake oven. This is a site-built brick oven or a pre-fabricated Italian oven that can be built alongside or on top of a fireplace, or as a stand-alone appliance. This is a “black” oven, meaning that wood is burned inside the oven where it turns black from the soot, then as the temperature gets higher the soot burns off. The ashes are removed after approximately three hours, leaving a 700-degree oven with even temperatures that are perfect for baking delicious pizzas. As the oven cools, artisan breads, and even whole meals can be cooked. Some folks “fire up” the oven weekly and bake their own breads, which are much healthier than store-bought bread.

My husband, Gene, a master mason who builds fireplaces and ovens, built us an outdoor bake oven in our own back yard. We often have guests over to have fun throwing pizza dough and making their own pizza, and everyone who tries it says that the pizza from the bake oven is by far the best they ever had. For more information on outdoor fireplaces and bake ovens please visit www.chimkc.com.

By Marge Padgitt

GAS FURNACE HEATING:
Every year, many people become ill or die due to a back up of Carbon Monoxide gasses from the furnace or hot water heater flue or connecting pipes.  This can be avoided with regular maintenance of the chimney.

Have the furnace flue checked annually by a CSIA Certified Chimney Sweep (www.csia.org) to be sure it is not clogged or damaged, and that there is no Carbon Monoxide backup into the home.
Make sure the flue is sized correctly to the appliances so it will draft well. Flues that are too large cause excessive condensation and damage the flue walls and mortar joints.
Keep trash and storage containers at least 3’ away from the heating system.
Have a heavy duty stainless steel chimney cover installed to keep damaging rain, animals, and debris out of the chimney.
Have the furnace checked annually by a qualified HVAC technician to be sure everything in the furnace is clean and in good working order. 
Only have a trained technician do needed repairs.

ABOUT CARBON MONOXIDE:
CO is an odorless, colorless, tasteless gas that is the natural by-product of combustion.  It is called the “Silent Killer,” because the victims may not know they are being poisoned.   Your body absorbs CO more easily than Oxygen, and mistakes it for Oxygen, causing illness and sometimes death.  Even low levels of CO have been shown to cause irreversible brain damage.
Some Symptoms of CO poisoning are:
Dizziness, headaches
Unexplained Flu-like symptoms
Fainting, nausea
Death
Get to a hospital as soon as exposure to CO is known so proper treatment can be administered.
Source: The Midwest Chimney Safety Council
www.midwestcsc.org

TIPS FOR USING WOOD-BURNING  STOVES, FIREPLACES, & FURNACES:
Most fires in wood stoves, fireplaces, and chimneys occur because of a lack of regular cleaning to remove creosote, which is the residue left behind by unburned fuel (ALL fuel burns incompletely). The National Fire Protection Association recommends annual inspection and cleaning as necessary by a Certified Chimney Sweep.

Don’t burn treated wood, railroad ties, trash, or colored paper since they emit toxic fumes.
Don’t burn pine trees or railroad ties since they create excessive amounts of flammable creosote and may overheat and warp your steel or cast iron appliance.  Burning Hedge is also discouraged since it burns very hot.
The best wood to burn is oak.  It is very dense and burns slowly. However, soft woods may also be used – you’ll just have to load the stove more often.
Burn your stove hot (400-700 degrees) to assure complete combustion, which is how the stove is designed to be used, and it is cleaner and better for the environment.  After establishing the fire, you should see white or clear smoke coming out of the chimney.  If the smoke is grey or black, something is wrong with the wood, your burning methods, or with the system.  .
Have the chimney checked annually (every 2 months during the heating season if used for the primary source of heat) and cleaned as necessary by a professional CSIA Certified Chimney Sweep (www.csia.org).  The sweep will remove flammable creosote, bird nests, and dead animals, and look for holes and gaps between the flue liner sections, cracked flue tiles, unparged or damaged smoke chamber, correct construction of the chimney, clearances to combustibles, and more that most homeowners do not have the training to indentify.
Follow operating instructions by the manufacturer (if applicable) to assure safe and efficient heating.
Keep combustible materials (including furniture) at least 3’ away from the appliance.
A screen should be placed in front of open fireplaces to keep embers and sparks from popping out.
Place a child guard screen around stoves to keep children from getting burned. 
Never use flammable liquids to start a fire—the fumes can ignite and explode. Use an approved gel, fatwood, or firestarter.
Remove flammable materials such as stockings from the mantel before starting a fire.
Use a metal container to transport ashes to the exterior of the home. 
Do not build large fires or long-burning fires in open fireplaces.  Fireplaces are designed for small, ambient fires only, and are not heating devices.  If you want to make your fireplace energy efficient and a heating source, have a wood or gas fireplace insert installed by a professional.
Have a heavy duty stainless steel chimney cover installed to keep damaging rain, animals, and debris out of the chimney.
If you suddenly notice that draft stops while burning a stove, a chimney fire may have occurred which makes creosote expand to many times its size and chokes off the flue.
If a chimney fire occurs, close the damper (if possible, get out of the house, and call the fire department.  DO NOT use the chimney until it has been inspected by a Certified Chimney Sweep.

HOW TO FIND A QUALIFIED CHIMNEY SWEEP
Like any other type of contractor, there are good and bad chimney sweeps.  You can greatly improve your chances of finding a qualified sweep if you follow these simple guidelines:
Look for a CSIA Certified Chimney Sweep at www.csia.org. A Certified Sweep has taken classes and testing on the methods and tools necessary to do the job correctly and knows the codes and clearances to combustibles.  He/she also has training in inspecting fireplaces and chimneys and will likely have the equipment necessary to do the job right.
Check your local Better Business Bureau for any complaints or unresolved issues the company may have.. 
If having repair work done, as for references and samples of the company’s work to review.
Ask to see certificates of insurance for Worker’s Comp and Liability.  If the sweep is not insured, don’t allow them on your property because you could be liable for any damages to your home or injuries to the sweep.
Be sure to check out the company’s website – there is likely a lot of information there for you to review.
If anything about the company makes you wary, don’t do business with them.
Other sites to visit are the Midwest Chimney Safety Council at www.mcsc-net.org and the National Fireplace Institute at www.nficertified.org.

OTHER TIPS:
Install a digital CO detector on each level of your home.
Install a hard-wired fire alarm system with an alarm on each floor and in the attic next to the chimney.
Do not leave open fires unattended.

By Marge Padgitt

There is nothing like the warmth and coziness of a hearth fire for a comfortable evening at home. But with the increased prices of gas, many people think “energy efficient” first, and “ambience” last, and have turned to alternatives for heating their homes.
When the energy crisis hit the U.S. hard in the 1970’s, manufacturing companies answered the call for wood-burning stoves with large, heavy, and inefficient appliances. Today’s options are varied and high-tech. Manufacturers have now had over 30 years to perfect their art; new appliances are much improved over their predecessor’s, offering high-efficiency and low emissions, and appliances that use much less wood to provide the same amount of heat. Using the renewable resource of wood makes modern wood-burning appliances very Green and earth-friendly. Homeowners now have a large selection in heating options. I hope these suggestions will be helpful to you in making a decision about which type of wood-burning appliance to purchase.

The Rumford Fireplace– Designed by Count Rumford in the 1700’s, this design has not been improved on to this day. The shallow depth, curved throat, angled side walls, and higher opening, combined with a smaller flue provide much more heat than the standard “box style” fireplace. Compared to a standard fireplace, which produces –30% to +5% in efficiency (meaning most of the heat goes up the chimney), the +40% efficiency Rumford far surpasses its competitor. Recent testing shows that properly designed Rumford fireplaces, throats, and flues are very clean burning and produce low emissions. Don’t expect to heat the entire house, but a Rumford will definitely heat the room it is in and maybe more space depending on the square footage in the area.
Historic homes are perfect for utilizing the Rumford design, which looks authentic and ads ambience to the residence, but a Rumford looks great in modern homes, too.
A new method of “Rumfordizing” existing fireplaces has been developed, where a box-style fireplace is transformed into a Rumford style to gain more heat. Some masons and CSIA Certified Chimney Sweeps are employing this method. Not all masons are trained properly in this method of fireplace building, so find a qualified Rumford builder at www.rumford.com, www.csia.org, or www.midwestcsc.org. Cost range- $4,500—$8,000.

Wood-burning Stoves- Gone are the days of the catalytic combustor, since the new EPA approved “non-catalytic” appliances are extremely low in emissions. Today’s wood stoves require less wood to heat the same amount of space, and that translates into savings in the cost of wood, and in your time to load the stove. Where loading was once required every 2 –3 hours, it is now only needed every 4-10 hours. The addition of an electric built-in blower will push the warmed air through the house, but is not necessary for the stove to work.
A wood-burning stove can be installed almost anywhere, provided there is an existing chimney that can be used or an outside wall where a Class A chimney can be installed. Existing chimneys must be brought up to current standards, and this means the installation of a 6” – 8” insulated stainless steel chimney liner. The flue can only be used for the stove—no other appliances can be attached to the same flue.
Wood stoves come in a variety of styles including standard matte black or a beautiful porcelain enamel finish, and are constructed of heavy steel, cast iron, or soapstone. All stoves require a non-combustible floor and wall behind the stove, with clearance to combustibles being different with each manufacturer. The old 36” rule no longer applies with the newer models, so more usable space is available in the room. The EPA regulates woodburning stoves so be sure to get one that is EPA approved and do not use an older model. 55,000—80,000 BTU output. Cost range—$3,000—$4,500

Wood-burning Fireplace Inserts- Sister to the wood-burning stove, this appliance is inserted into an existing masonry fireplace. A correctly sized stainless steel flue liner is necessary, with a connection to the wood stove. Most flues will measure 6” – 8” in diameter—some are in an oval shape. Do not install an insert with out the required steel flue liner with ceramic wool insulation—and have a professional do the installation. If used without a steel liner, the existing flue that was sized originally for your fireplace will be too large for the new appliance to draft correctly and creosote will accumulate on the flue walls. Usually glazed or tar creosote is the type that occurs in this situation, and since it is highly flammable, it is the cause of many chimney fires.
A wood stove insert will produce enough heat to warm a large area (800—3,000 sq. ft.) , and is extremely efficient—usually in the 70% + range for efficiency ratings. Most inserts are EPA approved non-catalytic, which means that a catalytic combustor, which requires maintenance, is not necessary. The addition of an electric built-in blower will push the warmed air through the house. Burn well-seasoned hard woods and you’ll be happy with not only the heat your insert produces, but the fewer times you need to load wood. The EPA regulates fireplace inserts so be sure to get one that is EPA approved and do not use an older model. 60,000—85,000 BTU output. Cost range $3,500—$5,000.

Wood-burning Furnace/boiler – Similar to the woodburning stove, but larger and produce 80,000—300,000 BTU’s or more. Many woodburning furnaces may be installed alongside an existing gas furnace (provided a separate flue is available), or outside the home in a shed, or stand alone outside. Most furnaces have electric fans and use ductwork to distribute the heat throughout the home, boilers use the hydronic underfloor method to distribute heat.
Either a Class A stainless steel chimney is required; or if using an existing masonry chimney, an approved stainless steel flue liner is necessary. Do not use used with a tile flue liner in a masonry chimney due to danger of excessive creosote accumulation and risk of chimney fire. It is extremely important to have a professional CSIA Certified Chimney Sweep or approved manufacturer installer do the analysis of the installation area and the actual installation of the furnace and flue. This is not a do-it-yourselfer project, as there are many critical items that must be taken into consideration including size of flue, location of the furnace, distance of the connecting pipe run, type of materials used, clearances to combustibles, etc. Find an installer at www.csia.org, or ask the manufacturer for help in finding a qualified dealer. Do your homework when selecting a furnace or boiler as there are large differences in efficiency. The EPA currently has no restrictions on woodburning furnaces in most states (except California, Washington, Oregon, and Colorado). Currently, there are no 80,000—250,000 BTU output. Cost range -$5,000 – $7,000.

Masonry Heaters– Arguably the best value in heating alternatives, masonry heaters are old world technology at its best. Designed with a site-built or pre-cast heater core inside of a brick, stone, tile, stucco, or soapstone exterior, and built on site. The masonry mass will be at least 1,760 lbs. The heater has tight fitting doors that are closed during the burn cycle. It has an interior construction consisting of a firebox and heat exchange channels built from refractory components. A masonry heater has the ability to store a very large amount of heat, which means that you can rapidly burn a large amount of wood without overheating the house. The heat is stored in the masonry thermal mass, and then slowly radiates for the next 18 to 24 hours. Loading of wood is only required approximately once every 12 hours. The heater burns the wood quickly and all of the energy in the wood is used so there is no waste. The heater burns very clean, and practically no emissions are produced so it is environmentally friendly.
This type of heater, designed and used extensively in Europe, is now gaining popularity in the U.S. The initial cost is more than other types of heating, but due to the savings in energy bills that cost can be recuperated in as little as seven years. The heat is evenly distributed through the home without the use of ductwork or forced air. It is best to design the home around a masonry heater to get the maximum efficiency—homes that have large, open spaces and tall ceilings are well suited for this type of heating appliance.
Added features may be a pizza/bread oven, a heated bench, mantles, heated hot water, and wood storage spaces. A masonry heater should be built by a qualified heater-mason contractor. Find a builder and get more information about how masonry heaters work on the Masonry Heater Association of North America website at www.mha-net.org. 80,000—250,000 BTU output. Cost range- $12,000—$30,000.

Wood appliance safety tips:
 Never install a wood burning appliance in a garage or any area where flammable vapors from gasoline, kerosene, or other flammable products are stored.
 Always have a qualified, licensed professional who knows the NFPA 211 Standards and International Residential Code do the installation. Look for an installer who is NFI or CSIA Certified.
 Keep children and pets away from hot appliances with special gates and guards made for this purpose.
 Keep the chimney and connecting pipes clean and have them serviced annually by a CSIA Certified Chimney Sweep (www.csia.org) to avoid chimney fires and improve the performance of the appliance.
 Keep furniture and other flammable objects at least 36” away from the front and sides of the appliance.
 Do not burn trash, treated wood, railroad ties, colored newspaper, magazines, or pine trees in a fireplace or woodburning appliance as toxic fumes and increased risk of a chimney fire may result.
 Burn your appliance very warm to hot—this means open the damper fully, provide enough combustion air for it to function, and use dense, dry, hardwoods. Read the manual and follow the instructions for the best performance of your appliance.

Internet Resources:

National Chimney Sweep Guild: www.ncsg.org
Chimney Safety Institute of America: www.csia.org
Midwest Chimney Safety Council: www.midwestcsc.org
Masonry Heater Association of North America: www.mha-net.org
National Fireplace Institute: www.nficertified.org
Rumford Fireplaces: www.rumford.com
Hearth, Patio, and Barbecue Association: www.hpba.org

Marge Padgitt is the owner of Padgitt Chimney & Fireplace in Kansas City, Missouri, and has 25 years experience in the chimney industry. She is a CSIA Certified Chimney Sweep, an NFI Certified Woodburning Specialist and is the Educational Director for the Midwest Chimney Safety Council. She can be contacted at marepadgitt@comcast.net or 816-461-3665.

The Chimney Lady is Marge Padgitt, President of HearthMasters and Padgitt Chimney & Fireplace in Kansas City, Missouri. Marge is a 24-year veteran in the chimney industry, author of chimney-related books and presentations, and a national speaker. She is a CSIA Certified Chimney Sweep and NFI Woodburning Specialist. Having worked in the largest chimney company in the Midwest, Marge has seen it all. If you have any questions about chimneys, post them here and get expert advice from The Chimney Lady.

Well, we are finally fully into the 21st Century with a blog on our website.  I hope you like it!