The Chimney Lady

Gene Padgitt at work on an 1880s Victorian chimney

1880's Victorian chimney completed

Most homeowners and contractors are not aware that training in Historic Chimney and Fireplace restoration is limited, and there are very few masons and/or chimney contractors who do this type of work across the U.S.  Many contractors are not aware of the International Residential Code requirements or NFPA 211 Standards for Chimneys and Fireplaces – or that each city has its own set of rules.  Additionally, the original look of the exterior chimney and fireplace must be retained, which is outside the scope of standard masonry training.  Historic masonry style, bricks, and mortar – are much different now than they were in the 1700′s and 1800′s.  The main difference is that lime mortar was used with very thin “butter” joints.  The mortar was often dyed to match the bricks for a more pleasing appearance. Typically, chimneys were built with “Little Reds” style bricks, which are still available in limited supply from brickyards that keep historic bricks on hand. These bricks are no longer made.

Homeowners should also be aware that the structure must be brought up to current codes and standards before attempting to use a fireplace.  This is required by code at the time of sale of any residential property. Following are some tips for homeowners:

 - Hire a professional chimney inspector to inspect all chimneys, flues, fireplaces, wood stoves, or gas appliances once a year and at the time of purchase of a home.  Home inspectors do not normally get the necessary training in this area that Chimney Safety Institute of America Certified Chimney Sweeps do.  Home Inspectors do not normally have the proper equipment to perform an adequate chimney inspection. The interior of chimneys cannot be evaluated with the naked eye, so a Chim-Scan camera is used.

- Get recommendations for repair options from the chimney inspector, who will also likely do repair work.  Be sure to check credentials and insurance.  Other credentials to look for in an inspector are National Fireplace Institute Certifications in Wood and/or Gas. Some inspectors are also Fire Investigators. Ask to see samples of their work and a list of references where work on historic chimneys was performed.

 - The item most often needed when doing historic chimney restoration work is a chimney flue liner.  Liners are required by code and must be a U.L. listed and/or approved product.  Types of flue liners vary from stainless steel, custom stainless steel, and Ceramic poured systems (as seen on This Old House).  Clay tile liners are generally no longer used in restoration work due to the difficulty in getting them installed properly and the fact that there is no warranty on the materials by the manufacturers.  Clay tiles break when chimney fires occur, whereas stainless steel or ceramic flue liners can withstand temperatures up to 2100 degrees without failing.

- Look for a contractor who has experience in building Rumford fireplaces or installing Bellfires fireplaces if you want an open wood-burning fireplace, or someone experienced in gas appliance installation. 

- Look for a contractor who is specifically skilled in historic masonry restoration and ask to see photos of their work and references. 

- Your city may also require that the contractor has a Master Mechanical License. Ask for proof of this license. The contractor must pull the permit for the work in most cases.

 -There are many options for historic fireplace restoration available now, including historic style mantels, open historic yet functional Rumford style fireplaces, historic look wood stove inserts and freestanding stoves, and closed direct vent gas fireplaces with an historic look.

 - As with any contractor, ask for certificates of insurance for Worker’s Comp and Liability, proof of any Certifications, MM License and work samples. 

 
Links for more information:

Midwest Chimney Safety Council: www.mcsc-net.org  (The MCSC does historic chimney restoration seminars)
Hearth, Patio, and Barbecue Association: www.hpba.org (find a list of certified installers and list of manufacturer websites here)
Chimney Safety Institute of America: www.csia.org (list of Certified Chimney Sweeps)
Thelin period look Wood and Gas freestanding stoves: www.thelinco.com – and find a list of dealers on their site
Hearthstone period look gas fireplace inserts: www.hearthstonestoves.com – and fild a list of dealers on their site

By Marge Padgitt

Today’s options for heating with wood are varied and high-tech. Manufacturers have now had over 30 years to perfect their art; new appliances are much improved over their predecessor’s, offering high-efficiency and low emissions, and appliances that use much less wood to provide the same amount of heat. Using the renewable resource of wood makes modern wood-burning appliances very “Green” and earth-friendly. Homeowners now have a large selection in wood-burning heating options. Since straw bale homes are so well insulated, you’ll need an appliance with less BTU’s than a standard house would. A home with an open floor plan will work best with any type of indoor heating appliance such as a fireplace, stove, or masonry heater.

 The Rumford Fireplace– Designed by Count Rumford in the 1700’s, the shallow depth, curved throat, angled side walls, and higher opening, combined with a smaller flue provide much more heat than the standard “box style” masonry fireplace. Compared to a standard fireplace, which produces –30% to +5% in efficiency (meaning most of the heat goes up the chimney), the +40% efficiency Rumford far surpasses its competitor. Recent testing shows that properly designed and built Rumford fireplaces, are very clean burning and produce low emissions. Don’t expect to heat the entire house, but a Rumford will definitely heat the room it is in and  more.

Not all masons are trained properly in this method of fireplace building, so find a qualified Rumford builder at www.rumford.com, www.csia.org, or www.midwestcsc.org. Estimated 40,000 + BTU output.

Wood-burning Stoves- Gone are the days of the catalytic combustor, since the new EPA approved “non-catalytic” appliances are extremely low in emissions. Today’s wood stoves require less wood to heat the same amount of space, and that translates into savings in the cost of wood, and in your time to prep wood and load the stove. Where loading was once required every 2 –3 hours, it is now only needed every 4-10 hours. The addition of an electric built-in blower will push the warmed air through the house, but is not necessary for the stove to work.

A wood-burning stove can be installed almost anywhere, provided there is an existing chimney that can be used, or an outside wall where a Class A chimney can be installed. Masonry chimneys require the installation of a 6” – 8” insulated stainless steel chimney liner.

Wood stoves come in a variety of styles including standard matte black or a beautiful porcelain enamel finish, and are constructed of heavy steel, cast iron, or soapstone. All stoves require a non-combustible floor and clearance to combustible walls, which is different with each manufacturer. The old 36” rule no longer applies with the newer models, so more usable space is available in the room. The EPA regulates woodburning stoves so be sure to get one that is EPA approved and do not use an older model. A professional should do the installation. 55,000—85,000 or highter BTU output. Many stoves qualify for the 30% tax credit.

Pellet/Corn/Bio-fuel Stoves- Available as free-standing or as a fireplace insert, this is a stove that uses small, compressed pellets made from waste sawdust, corn, wheat, or cherry pits. Some stoves will burn two or more different fuels, and other stoves will burn only one type of fuel. A hopper contains the fuel, while an augur feeds the fuel at a specified rate into a burn pot. Electricity is needed for this stove to work, and daily and/or weekly maintenance is required by the homeowner. Annual maintenance by a chimney sweep is required. Fuel can sometimes be difficult to obtain in some areas. Low emmisions at an average of 1.2 particulate grams per hour. 7,000 – 60,000 BTU’s. Bio-fuel furnaces and boilers are also available, and produce up to 113,000 BTU’s.  Pellet stoves qualify for the 30% tax credit in 2009-2010.

Wood-burning Furnace/boiler – Designed to heat an entire house or building. Woodburning furnaces may be installed inside or outside the home in a shed, or in its own covered steel shed. Most furnaces have electric fans and use ductwork to distribute the heat throughout the home, boilers use the hydronic underfloor method to distribute heat.

Either a Class A stainless steel chimney is required; or if using a masonry chimney, an approved stainless steel flue liner is necessary. It is extremely important to have a professional CSIA Certified Chimney Sweep or approved manufacturer installer do the analysis of the installation area and the actual installation of the furnace and flue. This is not a do-it-yourselfer project, as there are many critical items that must be taken into consideration including size of flue, location of the furnace, distance of the connecting pipe run, type of materials used, clearances to combustibles, etc. Find an installer at www.csia.org, or www.nficertified.org orask the manufacturer for help in finding a qualified dealer. Do your homework when selecting a furnace or boiler as there are large differences in efficiency. The EPA currently has no restrictions on woodburning furnaces in most states (except California, Washington, Oregon, and Colorado), but has plans to do so soon. There are some new boilers and furnaces that meet EPA standards for efficiency and qualify for the 2009-2010 tax credit. 80,000—300,000 BTU output.

Masonry Heaters– Arguably the best value in heating alternatives, masonry heaters are old world technology at its best, and are definately “green,” since they are built with natural masonry materials. Designed with a site-built or pre-cast heater core inside of a brick, stone, tile, stucco, or soapstone exterior, and built on site. The masonry mass will be at least 1,760 lbs. The heater has tight fitting doors that are closed during the burn cycle. It has an interior construction consisting of a firebox and heat exchange channels built from refractory components. A masonry heater has the ability to store a very large amount of heat, which means that you can rapidly burn a large amount of wood without overheating the house. The heat is stored in the masonry thermal mass, and then slowly radiates for the next 18 to 24 hours. Loading of wood is only required approximately once every 12 hours. The heater burns the wood quickly and all of the energy in the wood is used so there is no waste. The heater burns very clean, and practically no emissions are produced, so heaters environmentally friendly.
This type of heater, designed and used extensively in Europe, is now gaining popularity in the U.S. The initial cost is more than other types of heating, but due to the savings in energy bills that cost can be recuperated in as little as seven years. The heat is evenly distributed through the home without the use of ductwork or forced air. It is best to design the home around a masonry heater to get the maximum efficiency—homes that have large, open spaces and tall ceilings are well suited for this type of heating appliance.
Added features may be a pizza/bread oven, a heated bench, mantles, heated hot water, and wood storage spaces. A masonry heater should be built by a qualified heater-mason contractor. Find a builder and get more information about how masonry heaters work on the Masonry Heater Association of North America website at www.mha-net.org. 80,000—250,000 BTU output.

Internet Resources:

National Chimney Sweep Guild: www.ncsg.org

Chimney Safety Institute of America: www.csia.org

Midwest Chimney Safety Council: www.midwestcsc.org

Masonry Heater Association of North America: www.mha-net.org

National Fireplace Institute: www.nficertified.org

Rumford Fireplaces: www.rumford.com

Hearth, Patio, and Barbecue Association: www.hpba.org

Marge Padgitt is the president of HearthMasters, Inc. in Kansas City, Missouri, and has 25 years experience in the chimney and hearth industry. She is a CSIA Certified Chimney Sweep, an NFI Certified Woodburning Specialist, was on the board of directors for the Masonry Heater Association of North America, and is the Vice-President and Educational Director for the Midwest Chimney Safety Council. She can be contacted at marepadgitt@comcast.net or 816-461-3665.

Gas logs by Hargrove

By Marge Padgitt

Ventless or “non-venting” gas logs are more efficient than venting gas logs, which makes them a popular choice among consumers. However, there are some points about this type of appliance that consumers are not always made aware of before their purchase. As a service company, we have seen many issues with ventless log sets in the field after homeowners have a problem, and have first-hand knowledge of these issues.

Vent-free gas-burning log sets are advertised as being 99% efficient, which means that virtually all of the heat produced is kept in the house, rather than going out the chimney. However, this also means that the water vapor produced by the burning of gas also stays in the house- and this can be significant over a period of time. For this reason, it is my opinion that ventless logs should never be installed in a small room in a well-insulated home. Some of our customers have had mold issues caused by the excessive moisture.

The biggest complaint we receive is a strong odor when the logs are in use – at times so bad that the homeowner discontinues use of the fireplace. The source of the odor is off-gassing of items in the house such as furniture, carpet, cabinets, or chemicals like paint or bleach, which lurks in the air. In order to produce flame, the logs need oxygen, which is obtained from the air inside the house. After the chemicals are burned, they change composition and mild to strong odors may result. With venting gas logs, the odor is sent up the chimney, but with ventless logs, the odors remain in the house. 

Another issue, especially with older ventless sets is the level of Carbon Monoxide emissions. Currently, the acceptable level is 9ppm (parts per million), which means that if a log set tests at 9ppm or below, it is approved for installation in a home. Some of the sets we have tested in the field, however, are producing up to 24ppm. Notable is Dr. David Penney’s opinion that no level of CO exposure is OK for anyone, even low levels under 9ppm over a long period of time. According to Penney, it has been proven that low level exposure to CO can cause headaches, nausea, dizziness, and permanent brain damage. He suspects that CO may be a cause of Sudden Infant Death Syndrome. 

With today’s tighter, well-insulated homes, the exposure to CO is a great concern. The Environmental Protection Agency recommends a minimum of six air exchanges per day, which does not occur in many newer homes. Another issue that is complicated by tight homes is negative pressure. Negative house pressure can cause back up of flue gases from venting and non-venting gas logs and woodburning appliances, as well as furnaces and hot water heaters- which may go unnoticed by the homeowner. If testing shows negative pressure in the house a solution is to provide a whole house ventilator, such at the USPlus-Aire, which when connected to the furnace supply and return air and to the outside, provides the needed air for the home on demand whether the furnace is off or on. 

A simple test for negative pressure is to tape some newspaper strips to the front face of the fireplace during cold weather. Make sure the doors of the house are closed and all fans are off. If the paper moves outward, into the room, there is a high possibility that negative pressure is an issue. This is always worse on the lower levels of the home. Now slowly open a window and watch the paper. At the point where the paper moves back into the fireplace stop and measure the opening of the window. This is the amount of air needed to add to the house to correct the problem for that appliance only. More air will likely be needed for other appliances to function properly. Note: adding an outside air source directly to the fireplace for combustion air is not the best solution since it dumps cold air on a fire and makes it less efficient. 

Manufacturer and Code Requirements:

•  If a set is installed into a regular masonry chimney with a clay tile liner the entire chimney must be in good working order. So installation of a ventless gas log set is not a solution for a damaged chimney. 
• In most jurisdictions, ventless logs are not allowed in bedrooms. Some cities do not allow them at all. 
• Most manufacturers state that when using non-venting logs a window must be opened, which defeats the purpose of warming the house.
• Most manufacturers state that their log sets may only be used for short periods of time. 
• Never install any type of gas logs into a prefabricated or manufacturered fireplace – any alterations to this type of fireplace can cause overheating and potentially a house fire.  Check with the manufacturer first before making any changes.

Suggestions:

• If you already have a set of non-venting gas logs, read the owner’s manual thoroughly and have the set serviced at least once annually by a qualified service technician to make sure they are in good working order and CO levels are low. 
• If considering ventless gas logs, I suggest looking into Direct Vent gas inserts or freestanding stoves instead. This technology is a sealed system which uses outside air for combustion and exhausts toxic gases and moisture to the outside. Inserts can be installed into masonry chimneys and if the interior chimney is damaged it does not need to be repaired in most cases. DV inserts and stoves are high-efficiency units.
• Have the house checked for negative pressure and air exchanges, especially after insulating the home or adding thermal windows. If there is a problem, add a whole-house ventilator.