The Chimney Lady

Missing mortar joints and gaps in the liner

By Marge Padgitt 

Utility flues serving furnaces, water heaters, and boilers are often forgotten and ignored, yet can pose serious hazards for the occupants of the home. Most problems lie with older masonry chimneys with clay tile flue liners, or chimneys without liners. Homeowners are generally not aware that these flues need to be inspected annually as recommended by the National Fire Protection Association 211 Standards, and that professional chimney sweeps maintain these flues. HVAC contractors do not sweep or inspect flues, or install replacement flue liners.

 Masonry chimneys deteriorate over time, starting from the interior, due to exposure to rain and acidic flue gasses, which damage mortar and clay tile liners. Over a period of years, this mortar falls and accumulates at the bottom of the flue, sometimes causing large restrictions that can cause carbon monoxide backup. Flue liners have been required by code since 1927, yet many homes built prior to 1950 do not have liners. Flue liners are installed to provide a complete sealed exit for toxic flue gases. They have mortar joints between each two-foot section of tile. But mortar joints that are deteriorated, have holes, or are missing can allow gases to escape the flue liner and enter the living space via a neighboring flue liner serving a fireplace, or through the masonry chimney.

Masonry chimneys are designed to last for many years as long as they are maintained. However, lack of homeowner education usually results in improperly maintained chimneys and flues, which can be a health hazard to the occupants and cause appliances to work inefficiently. Flue liner size is very important – and must be correct in order for draft to occur. A flue liner that is too large for the appliance may cause backup of gases. This is common in homes where newer, mid-efficiency appliances have been installed which need a smaller liner, and in cases where a high-efficiency furnace is installed and vented through the side of the house, leaving an “abandoned” hot water heater to vent on its own in a flue that is very over sized.

Carbon monoxide is an odorless, tasteless, colorless gas that is the by-product of incomplete combustion. The current standard for CO alarms is 9 ppm, however, recent testing proves that even very low levels of CO exposure over a long period of time can cause irreversible brain and organ damage. The Environmental Protection Agency states that CO detectors are to be used as a backup and are not a replacement for maintenance of appliances and flues. Even so, the EPA recommends the use of CO detectors placed strategically throughout the house.

Dr. David Penney, author of Carbon Monoxide Toxicity and professor of Physiology at Wayne State Univsersity School of Medicine has devoted years of research to this topic and posts his findings on his website at www.coheadquarters.com. Penney suggests that SIDS may be due to low level CO exposure and that children, the elderly, and pets are more susceptible to its effects.

According to the Center for Disease Control, 15,000 people visit emergency rooms and 500 people die every year due to CO poisoning. Symptoms of CO poisoning may include flu-like symptoms that go away or lessen after leaving the house, unexplained headaches, nausea, and dizziness; fainting, muscle weakness, inability to wake up, and death. If more than one family member has the same symptoms the EPA recommends visiting a doctor or hospital and mentioning that you suspect CO exposure.

Original flue was too large for the furance

Utility flue safety tips:

• Have the flue checked annually by a CSIA Certified Chimney Sweep who will look for clogs caused by bird nests, leaves, debris, dead animals, and mortar or bricks, cracked flue tiles, missing tiles, and missing mortar joints.

• Have a heavy duty stainless steel chimney cover installed to keep damaging rain and animals out of the flue.

• Make sure the flue is sized correctly to the appliances

• Never connect another appliance (water heater excepted) to the same flue as a furnace or boiler

• Have the flue examined when changing appliances

• Install CO detectors

According to a chimney sweep in Kansas City, Missouri, he has encountered numerous utility flue problems over the years, citing that it is a common issue. “People don’t think about the inside of their chimney and it is usually ignored until a chimney sweep finds a problem or someone gets ill,” stated the sweep. In one example, another chimney sweep broke out flue tiles and left them in the flue, clogging it completely, which made the homeowners very ill for weeks. In another example, over five feet of debris was removed from a boiler flue that had not been maintained for years and had blocked the flue by 90 percent. The clog caused an entire church congregation to become very ill.

 Resources:

Midwest Chimney Safety Council
Chimney Safety Institute of America
National Fire Protection Association
CO Headquarters
Environmental Protection Agency

Marge Padgitt, Education Director for the Midwest Chimney Safety Council, is available to speak to groups about chimney safety issues, appliance installation and maintenance, choosing a wood-burning appliance, chimney construction, and codes. Contact her at margepadgitt@comcast.net.

By Marge Padgitt

GAS FURNACE HEATING:
Every year, many people become ill or die due to a back up of Carbon Monoxide gasses from the furnace or hot water heater flue or connecting pipes.  This can be avoided with regular maintenance of the chimney.

Have the furnace flue checked annually by a CSIA Certified Chimney Sweep (www.csia.org) to be sure it is not clogged or damaged, and that there is no Carbon Monoxide backup into the home.
Make sure the flue is sized correctly to the appliances so it will draft well. Flues that are too large cause excessive condensation and damage the flue walls and mortar joints.
Keep trash and storage containers at least 3’ away from the heating system.
Have a heavy duty stainless steel chimney cover installed to keep damaging rain, animals, and debris out of the chimney.
Have the furnace checked annually by a qualified HVAC technician to be sure everything in the furnace is clean and in good working order. 
Only have a trained technician do needed repairs.

ABOUT CARBON MONOXIDE:
CO is an odorless, colorless, tasteless gas that is the natural by-product of combustion.  It is called the “Silent Killer,” because the victims may not know they are being poisoned.   Your body absorbs CO more easily than Oxygen, and mistakes it for Oxygen, causing illness and sometimes death.  Even low levels of CO have been shown to cause irreversible brain damage.
Some Symptoms of CO poisoning are:
Dizziness, headaches
Unexplained Flu-like symptoms
Fainting, nausea
Death
Get to a hospital as soon as exposure to CO is known so proper treatment can be administered.
Source: The Midwest Chimney Safety Council
www.midwestcsc.org

TIPS FOR USING WOOD-BURNING  STOVES, FIREPLACES, & FURNACES:
Most fires in wood stoves, fireplaces, and chimneys occur because of a lack of regular cleaning to remove creosote, which is the residue left behind by unburned fuel (ALL fuel burns incompletely). The National Fire Protection Association recommends annual inspection and cleaning as necessary by a Certified Chimney Sweep.

Don’t burn treated wood, railroad ties, trash, or colored paper since they emit toxic fumes.
Don’t burn pine trees or railroad ties since they create excessive amounts of flammable creosote and may overheat and warp your steel or cast iron appliance.  Burning Hedge is also discouraged since it burns very hot.
The best wood to burn is oak.  It is very dense and burns slowly. However, soft woods may also be used – you’ll just have to load the stove more often.
Burn your stove hot (400-700 degrees) to assure complete combustion, which is how the stove is designed to be used, and it is cleaner and better for the environment.  After establishing the fire, you should see white or clear smoke coming out of the chimney.  If the smoke is grey or black, something is wrong with the wood, your burning methods, or with the system.  .
Have the chimney checked annually (every 2 months during the heating season if used for the primary source of heat) and cleaned as necessary by a professional CSIA Certified Chimney Sweep (www.csia.org).  The sweep will remove flammable creosote, bird nests, and dead animals, and look for holes and gaps between the flue liner sections, cracked flue tiles, unparged or damaged smoke chamber, correct construction of the chimney, clearances to combustibles, and more that most homeowners do not have the training to indentify.
Follow operating instructions by the manufacturer (if applicable) to assure safe and efficient heating.
Keep combustible materials (including furniture) at least 3’ away from the appliance.
A screen should be placed in front of open fireplaces to keep embers and sparks from popping out.
Place a child guard screen around stoves to keep children from getting burned. 
Never use flammable liquids to start a fire—the fumes can ignite and explode. Use an approved gel, fatwood, or firestarter.
Remove flammable materials such as stockings from the mantel before starting a fire.
Use a metal container to transport ashes to the exterior of the home. 
Do not build large fires or long-burning fires in open fireplaces.  Fireplaces are designed for small, ambient fires only, and are not heating devices.  If you want to make your fireplace energy efficient and a heating source, have a wood or gas fireplace insert installed by a professional.
Have a heavy duty stainless steel chimney cover installed to keep damaging rain, animals, and debris out of the chimney.
If you suddenly notice that draft stops while burning a stove, a chimney fire may have occurred which makes creosote expand to many times its size and chokes off the flue.
If a chimney fire occurs, close the damper (if possible, get out of the house, and call the fire department.  DO NOT use the chimney until it has been inspected by a Certified Chimney Sweep.

HOW TO FIND A QUALIFIED CHIMNEY SWEEP
Like any other type of contractor, there are good and bad chimney sweeps.  You can greatly improve your chances of finding a qualified sweep if you follow these simple guidelines:
Look for a CSIA Certified Chimney Sweep at www.csia.org. A Certified Sweep has taken classes and testing on the methods and tools necessary to do the job correctly and knows the codes and clearances to combustibles.  He/she also has training in inspecting fireplaces and chimneys and will likely have the equipment necessary to do the job right.
Check your local Better Business Bureau for any complaints or unresolved issues the company may have.. 
If having repair work done, as for references and samples of the company’s work to review.
Ask to see certificates of insurance for Worker’s Comp and Liability.  If the sweep is not insured, don’t allow them on your property because you could be liable for any damages to your home or injuries to the sweep.
Be sure to check out the company’s website – there is likely a lot of information there for you to review.
If anything about the company makes you wary, don’t do business with them.
Other sites to visit are the Midwest Chimney Safety Council at www.mcsc-net.org and the National Fireplace Institute at www.nficertified.org.

OTHER TIPS:
Install a digital CO detector on each level of your home.
Install a hard-wired fire alarm system with an alarm on each floor and in the attic next to the chimney.
Do not leave open fires unattended.