Midwest Chimney Safety Council Warns about CO Poisoning and Chimney Fires

Posted on August 25, 2010 by admin

A faulty furnace or fireplace flue may cause CO backup or a chimney fire, which can be deadly. The MCSC urges homeowners to have an annual inspection of their furnace, boiler, fireplace, wood stove or water heater flue by a CSIA Certified Chimney Sweep.

Carbon Monoxide is the natural by-product of combustion of fuels.  CO is produced when gas, propane, kerosene, or wood is burned.  It is a colorless, odorless, tasteless gas that is sometimes called “The Silent Killer.”  Symptoms of CO poisoning include nausea, dizziness, disorientation,  fainting, and death.  Long-term exposure to even low levels of CO can cause irreversible brain damage, motor function impairment, and cognitive impairment.

“The most often overlooked maintenance item in the home is the furnace flue,” says Marge Padgitt, Educational Director for the MCSC.  Furnace flues clogged with debris, bird nests, fallen mortar and bricks, etc. can cause CO backup, and cracked flue tiles or missing mortar joints can cause CO leakage into the living space, which may go unnoticed by the homeowner.  It is critical that flues are in good working order and are sized correctly for the appliance in order for proper draft to occur. It is worth mentioning that most HVAC contractors do not inspect or maintain furnace flues, and that this is normally done by a chimney sweep.

 “The second most overlooked flue is the one serving a wood-burning appliance such as a wood stove or fireplace,” says Padgitt.  Many people don’t realize that creosote is flammable and needs to be removed periodically, usually once per year for a fireplace and twice per season for a wood stove. Build up of creosote can result in a chimney fire that can spread to the rest of the house.  A little-known fact is that most chimney fires go unnoticed by the homeowner and are only identified when a chimney sweep sees the flue.  Damaged flues are a fire hazard and must be relined before they are used again. 

 Tips:

  •  All flues should be inspected annually and cleaned as necessary by a CSIA Certified Chimney Sweep, who is certified by the Chimney Safety Institute of America.
  • Wood burning stove and fireplace stove insert flues may need to be swept twice per season to remove flammable creosote.
  • ALL wood produces creosote—even dry hardwoods.
  • Only burn seasoned hard or soft wood (except soft pine) in a fireplace, wood stove, or wood-burning furnace.
  • Never burn trash, railroad ties, or treated wood in a fireplace or stove.  Toxic fumes can result.
  • Never burn Christmas trees—they burn so fast and hot that a chimney fire will likely result.
  • Furnace/hot water heater flues should be inspected annually for clogs by debris or nests, or breaks or gaps in the flue liner that could pose a Carbon Monoxide hazard.

Visit the MCSC website at http://www.mcsc-net.org for more free consumer information.

Contact Marge Padgitt, Vice-President and Educational Director, Midwest Chimney Safety Council at 816-461-3665 or e-mail margepadgitt@comcast.net for more information.

Posted in Chimney Maintenance, Chimney Problems, Furnace/Boiler Flues | 14 Comments

Get your chimney ready for fall and winter now

Posted on August 25, 2010 by admin

The Midwest Chimney Safety Council recommends annual inspection of all flues and chimneys serving furnaces, hot water heaters, boilers, fireplaces, wood stoves, and wood stove inserts by a professional CSIA Certified Chimney Sweep in Spring or Summer before the Fall rush.

MCSC Vice President, Marge Padgitt, says that many people are unaware of the condition of their chimney, which can be a serious problem for homeowners.  “Carbon Monoxide backup or leakage can cause the occupants to become ill or die,” says  Padgitt.  This can be caused by a faulty flue that has missing mortar joints, missing flue liner, cracks in the liner, or flues that are clogged with debris such as mortar, bricks, twigs, and bird nests.  CO problems usually arise when a gas appliance such as a furnace or hot water heater is not venting correctly.  HVAC Technicians do not inspect or maintain chimneys or flues, but professional chimney sweeps do.

Another issue is creosote accumulation from wood-burning, which is a fire hazard.  All wood produces creosote, even dry hardwoods, so an annual inspection is necessary to see if sweeping is needed and to check the chimney for cracks, holes, flammable nests, and construction issues.  Sweeping is usually done annually for flues serving fireplaces, and annually or bi-annually for flues serving wood stoves used for heating purposes. 

Chimney fires are caused by a spark, or heat above 1,000 degrees, which is the temperature that can ignite creosote.  Padgitt says that most chimney fires go unnoticed by the homeowner and are only found later by a chimney sweep.  However, if there is sufficient creosote in the flue and air for combustion, a large chimney fire can result which can lead to a house fire.  Chimney fires almost always cause damages to the flue liner and smoke chamber, and these need to be repaired before further use of the chimney.  “It is more dangerous after a chimney fire to use a damaged chimney, because creosote has more places to go between cracked flue liners and blown out mortar joints, and the next fire may be worse” said Marge.

Padgitt says that inspecting a fireplace flue properly usually requires the use of an internal video inspection camera in order to see the entire flue.  She suggests that homeowners do some research to make sure their chimney sweep uses a camera system for inspections and is Certified by the Chimney Safety Institute of America.

Visit the MCSC website at www.mcsc-net.org for more free consumer information.

Contact Marge Padgitt, Vice-President and Educational Director, Midwest Chimney Safety Council at 816-461-3665 or e-mail margepadgitt@comcast.net for more information.

Posted in Chimney Maintenance, Chimney Problems, Masonry Chimneys | 20 Comments

The Midwest Chimney Safety Council Responds to Inquiries about Sweeping Log

Posted on August 25, 2010 by admin

The manufacturer claims that the CSL log is to be burned for approximately 90 minutes, after which creosote deposits will fall down into the fire, smoke shelf, or wood stove. Then the consumer is to use their chimney normally. The catalytic action of the chemicals takes up to 15 days to work.

 The packaging also bears the following message: “Regular chimney inspections are always recommended. The CSL will not tell you if your chimney is blocked or has any kind of structural damage. The Creosote Sweeping Log does not take the place of inspection and professional cleaning.” 

“Chimneys cannot be inspected by a CSL Log,” says Gene Padgitt, owner of Padgitt Chimney & Fireplace in Independence, Missouri.  “It takes a professionally trained chimney sweep to do the inspection with an internal camera system.”   “However, most consumers don’t read the entire label and may have a false sense of security, believing that they don’t need the services of a chimney sweep any longer, says Padgitt. Gene also believes that a chimney can only be thoroughly swept with professional brushes, and he does not have confidence that the log can do as thorough a job.

 “The CSL website states that it is OK to use the CSL log in a wood stove, however, wood stove manufacturer instructions state that only dry hardwoods should be burned, and the use of any other product may void the warranty of the stove.  The same is true for some of the manufactured fireplaces.

Some consumers report chimney fires occuring right after using the CSL log.  Two  Kansas City homeowners used the log in the winter of 2010 and had chimney fires the next day. “I don’t think this is a coincidence, I  believe it was due to the creosote falling down closer to the fire in the fireplace, which ignited” said Gene Padgitt. 

The MCSC recommends annual inspection and sweeping as necessary by a CSIA Certified Chimney Sweep. Visit the MCSC website at www.mcsc-net.org for more information.

Contact Marge Padgitt, Vice-President and Educational Director, Midwest Chimney Safety Council at 816-461-3665 or e-mail margepadgitt@comcast.net for more information.

Posted in Chimney Maintenance, Masonry Chimneys | 1 Comment

Hire a Qualified Specialty Contractor for Historic Chimney Restoration Work

Posted on November 20, 2009 by admin
Gene Padgitt at work on an 1880s Victorian chimney

Gene Padgitt at work on an 1880s Victorian chimney

1880's Victorian chimney completed

1880's Victorian chimney completed

Most homeowners and contractors are not aware that training in Historic Chimney and Fireplace restoration is limited, and there are very few masons and/or chimney contractors who do this type of work across the U.S.  Many contractors are not aware of the International Residential Code requirements or NFPA 211 Standards for Chimneys and Fireplaces – or that each city has its own set of rules.  Additionally, the original look of the exterior chimney and fireplace must be retained, which is outside the scope of standard masonry training.  Historic masonry style, bricks, and mortar – are much different now than they were in the 1700′s and 1800′s.  The main difference is that lime mortar was used with very thin “butter” joints.  The mortar was often dyed to match the bricks for a more pleasing appearance. Typically, chimneys were built with “Little Reds” style bricks, which are still available in limited supply from brickyards that keep historic bricks on hand. These bricks are no longer made.

Homeowners should also be aware that the structure must be brought up to current codes and standards before attempting to use a fireplace.  This is required by code at the time of sale of any residential property. Following are some tips for homeowners:

 - Hire a professional chimney inspector to inspect all chimneys, flues, fireplaces, wood stoves, or gas appliances once a year and at the time of purchase of a home.  Home inspectors do not normally get the necessary training in this area that Chimney Safety Institute of America Certified Chimney Sweeps do.  Home Inspectors do not normally have the proper equipment to perform an adequate chimney inspection. The interior of chimneys cannot be evaluated with the naked eye, so a Chim-Scan camera is used.

- Get recommendations for repair options from the chimney inspector, who will also likely do repair work.  Be sure to check credentials and insurance.  Other credentials to look for in an inspector are National Fireplace Institute Certifications in Wood and/or Gas. Some inspectors are also Fire Investigators. Ask to see samples of their work and a list of references where work on historic chimneys was performed.

 - The item most often needed when doing historic chimney restoration work is a chimney flue liner.  Liners are required by code and must be a U.L. listed and/or approved product.  Types of flue liners vary from stainless steel, custom stainless steel, and Ceramic poured systems (as seen on This Old House).  Clay tile liners are generally no longer used in restoration work due to the difficulty in getting them installed properly and the fact that there is no warranty on the materials by the manufacturers.  Clay tiles break when chimney fires occur, whereas stainless steel or ceramic flue liners can withstand temperatures up to 2100 degrees without failing.

- Look for a contractor who has experience in building Rumford fireplaces or installing Bellfires fireplaces if you want an open wood-burning fireplace, or someone experienced in gas appliance installation. 

- Look for a contractor who is specifically skilled in historic masonry restoration and ask to see photos of their work and references. 

- Your city may also require that the contractor has a Master Mechanical License. Ask for proof of this license. The contractor must pull the permit for the work in most cases.

 -There are many options for historic fireplace restoration available now, including historic style mantels, open historic yet functional Rumford style fireplaces, historic look wood stove inserts and freestanding stoves, and closed direct vent gas fireplaces with an historic look.

 - As with any contractor, ask for certificates of insurance for Worker’s Comp and Liability, proof of any Certifications, MM License and work samples. 

 
Links for more information:

Midwest Chimney Safety Council: www.mcsc-net.org  (The MCSC does historic chimney restoration seminars)
Hearth, Patio, and Barbecue Association: www.hpba.org (find a list of certified installers and list of manufacturer websites here)
Chimney Safety Institute of America: www.csia.org (list of Certified Chimney Sweeps)
Thelin period look Wood and Gas freestanding stoves: www.thelinco.com – and find a list of dealers on their site
Hearthstone period look gas fireplace inserts: www.hearthstonestoves.com – and fild a list of dealers on their site

Posted in Masonry Chimneys | 36 Comments

Heating Your Straw Bale Home With Wood

Posted on November 20, 2009 by admin

By Marge Padgitt

Today’s options for heating with wood are varied and high-tech. Manufacturers have now had over 30 years to perfect their art; new appliances are much improved over their predecessor’s, offering high-efficiency and low emissions, and appliances that use much less wood to provide the same amount of heat. Using the renewable resource of wood makes modern wood-burning appliances very “Green” and earth-friendly. Homeowners now have a large selection in wood-burning heating options. Since straw bale homes are so well insulated, you’ll need an appliance with less BTU’s than a standard house would. A home with an open floor plan will work best with any type of indoor heating appliance such as a fireplace, stove, or masonry heater.

 The Rumford Fireplace– Designed by Count Rumford in the 1700’s, the shallow depth, curved throat, angled side walls, and higher opening, combined with a smaller flue provide much more heat than the standard “box style” masonry fireplace. Compared to a standard fireplace, which produces –30% to +5% in efficiency (meaning most of the heat goes up the chimney), the +40% efficiency Rumford far surpasses its competitor. Recent testing shows that properly designed and built Rumford fireplaces, are very clean burning and produce low emissions. Don’t expect to heat the entire house, but a Rumford will definitely heat the room it is in and  more.

Not all masons are trained properly in this method of fireplace building, so find a qualified Rumford builder at www.rumford.com, www.csia.org, or www.midwestcsc.org. Estimated 40,000 + BTU output.

Wood-burning Stoves- Gone are the days of the catalytic combustor, since the new EPA approved “non-catalytic” appliances are extremely low in emissions. Today’s wood stoves require less wood to heat the same amount of space, and that translates into savings in the cost of wood, and in your time to prep wood and load the stove. Where loading was once required every 2 –3 hours, it is now only needed every 4-10 hours. The addition of an electric built-in blower will push the warmed air through the house, but is not necessary for the stove to work.

A wood-burning stove can be installed almost anywhere, provided there is an existing chimney that can be used, or an outside wall where a Class A chimney can be installed. Masonry chimneys require the installation of a 6” – 8” insulated stainless steel chimney liner.

Wood stoves come in a variety of styles including standard matte black or a beautiful porcelain enamel finish, and are constructed of heavy steel, cast iron, or soapstone. All stoves require a non-combustible floor and clearance to combustible walls, which is different with each manufacturer. The old 36” rule no longer applies with the newer models, so more usable space is available in the room. The EPA regulates woodburning stoves so be sure to get one that is EPA approved and do not use an older model. A professional should do the installation. 55,000—85,000 or highter BTU output. Many stoves qualify for the 30% tax credit.

Pellet/Corn/Bio-fuel Stoves- Available as free-standing or as a fireplace insert, this is a stove that uses small, compressed pellets made from waste sawdust, corn, wheat, or cherry pits. Some stoves will burn two or more different fuels, and other stoves will burn only one type of fuel. A hopper contains the fuel, while an augur feeds the fuel at a specified rate into a burn pot. Electricity is needed for this stove to work, and daily and/or weekly maintenance is required by the homeowner. Annual maintenance by a chimney sweep is required. Fuel can sometimes be difficult to obtain in some areas. Low emmisions at an average of 1.2 particulate grams per hour. 7,000 – 60,000 BTU’s. Bio-fuel furnaces and boilers are also available, and produce up to 113,000 BTU’s.  Pellet stoves qualify for the 30% tax credit in 2009-2010.

Wood-burning Furnace/boiler – Designed to heat an entire house or building. Woodburning furnaces may be installed inside or outside the home in a shed, or in its own covered steel shed. Most furnaces have electric fans and use ductwork to distribute the heat throughout the home, boilers use the hydronic underfloor method to distribute heat.

Either a Class A stainless steel chimney is required; or if using a masonry chimney, an approved stainless steel flue liner is necessary. It is extremely important to have a professional CSIA Certified Chimney Sweep or approved manufacturer installer do the analysis of the installation area and the actual installation of the furnace and flue. This is not a do-it-yourselfer project, as there are many critical items that must be taken into consideration including size of flue, location of the furnace, distance of the connecting pipe run, type of materials used, clearances to combustibles, etc. Find an installer at www.csia.org, or www.nficertified.org orask the manufacturer for help in finding a qualified dealer. Do your homework when selecting a furnace or boiler as there are large differences in efficiency. The EPA currently has no restrictions on woodburning furnaces in most states (except California, Washington, Oregon, and Colorado), but has plans to do so soon. There are some new boilers and furnaces that meet EPA standards for efficiency and qualify for the 2009-2010 tax credit. 80,000—300,000 BTU output.

Masonry Heaters– Arguably the best value in heating alternatives, masonry heaters are old world technology at its best, and are definately “green,” since they are built with natural masonry materials. Designed with a site-built or pre-cast heater core inside of a brick, stone, tile, stucco, or soapstone exterior, and built on site. The masonry mass will be at least 1,760 lbs. The heater has tight fitting doors that are closed during the burn cycle. It has an interior construction consisting of a firebox and heat exchange channels built from refractory components. A masonry heater has the ability to store a very large amount of heat, which means that you can rapidly burn a large amount of wood without overheating the house. The heat is stored in the masonry thermal mass, and then slowly radiates for the next 18 to 24 hours. Loading of wood is only required approximately once every 12 hours. The heater burns the wood quickly and all of the energy in the wood is used so there is no waste. The heater burns very clean, and practically no emissions are produced, so heaters environmentally friendly.
This type of heater, designed and used extensively in Europe, is now gaining popularity in the U.S. The initial cost is more than other types of heating, but due to the savings in energy bills that cost can be recuperated in as little as seven years. The heat is evenly distributed through the home without the use of ductwork or forced air. It is best to design the home around a masonry heater to get the maximum efficiency—homes that have large, open spaces and tall ceilings are well suited for this type of heating appliance.
Added features may be a pizza/bread oven, a heated bench, mantles, heated hot water, and wood storage spaces. A masonry heater should be built by a qualified heater-mason contractor. Find a builder and get more information about how masonry heaters work on the Masonry Heater Association of North America website at www.mha-net.org. 80,000—250,000 BTU output.

Internet Resources:

National Chimney Sweep Guild: www.ncsg.org

Chimney Safety Institute of America: www.csia.org

Midwest Chimney Safety Council: www.midwestcsc.org

Masonry Heater Association of North America: www.mha-net.org

National Fireplace Institute: www.nficertified.org

Rumford Fireplaces: www.rumford.com

Hearth, Patio, and Barbecue Association: www.hpba.org

 

Marge Padgitt is the president of HearthMasters, Inc. in Kansas City, Missouri, and has 25 years experience in the chimney and hearth industry. She is a CSIA Certified Chimney Sweep, an NFI Certified Woodburning Specialist, was on the board of directors for the Masonry Heater Association of North America, and is the Vice-President and Educational Director for the Midwest Chimney Safety Council. She can be contacted at marepadgitt@comcast.net or 816-461-3665.

 

 

Posted in Masonry Chimneys, Masonry Heaters, Straw Bale Homes | 35 Comments

What you need to know about non-venting gas logs

Posted on November 3, 2009 by admin
Gas logs by Hargrove

Gas logs by Hargrove

By Marge Padgitt

Ventless or “non-venting” gas logs are more efficient than venting gas logs, which makes them a popular choice among consumers. However, there are some points about this type of appliance that consumers are not always made aware of before their purchase. As a service company, we have seen many issues with ventless log sets in the field after homeowners have a problem, and have first-hand knowledge of these issues.

Vent-free gas-burning log sets are advertised as being 99% efficient, which means that virtually all of the heat produced is kept in the house, rather than going out the chimney. However, this also means that the water vapor produced by the burning of gas also stays in the house- and this can be significant over a period of time. For this reason, it is my opinion that ventless logs should never be installed in a small room in a well-insulated home. Some of our customers have had mold issues caused by the excessive moisture.

The biggest complaint we receive is a strong odor when the logs are in use – at times so bad that the homeowner discontinues use of the fireplace. The source of the odor is off-gassing of items in the house such as furniture, carpet, cabinets, or chemicals like paint or bleach, which lurks in the air. In order to produce flame, the logs need oxygen, which is obtained from the air inside the house. After the chemicals are burned, they change composition and mild to strong odors may result. With venting gas logs, the odor is sent up the chimney, but with ventless logs, the odors remain in the house. 

Another issue, especially with older ventless sets is the level of Carbon Monoxide emissions. Currently, the acceptable level is 9ppm (parts per million), which means that if a log set tests at 9ppm or below, it is approved for installation in a home. Some of the sets we have tested in the field, however, are producing up to 24ppm. Notable is Dr. David Penney’s opinion that no level of CO exposure is OK for anyone, even low levels under 9ppm over a long period of time. According to Penney, it has been proven that low level exposure to CO can cause headaches, nausea, dizziness, and permanent brain damage. He suspects that CO may be a cause of Sudden Infant Death Syndrome. 

With today’s tighter, well-insulated homes, the exposure to CO is a great concern. The Environmental Protection Agency recommends a minimum of six air exchanges per day, which does not occur in many newer homes. Another issue that is complicated by tight homes is negative pressure. Negative house pressure can cause back up of flue gases from venting and non-venting gas logs and woodburning appliances, as well as furnaces and hot water heaters- which may go unnoticed by the homeowner. If testing shows negative pressure in the house a solution is to provide a whole house ventilator, such at the USPlus-Aire, which when connected to the furnace supply and return air and to the outside, provides the needed air for the home on demand whether the furnace is off or on. 

A simple test for negative pressure is to tape some newspaper strips to the front face of the fireplace during cold weather. Make sure the doors of the house are closed and all fans are off. If the paper moves outward, into the room, there is a high possibility that negative pressure is an issue. This is always worse on the lower levels of the home. Now slowly open a window and watch the paper. At the point where the paper moves back into the fireplace stop and measure the opening of the window. This is the amount of air needed to add to the house to correct the problem for that appliance only. More air will likely be needed for other appliances to function properly. Note: adding an outside air source directly to the fireplace for combustion air is not the best solution since it dumps cold air on a fire and makes it less efficient. 

Manufacturer and Code Requirements:

  •  If a set is installed into a regular masonry chimney with a clay tile liner the entire chimney must be in good working order. So installation of a ventless gas log set is not a solution for a damaged chimney. 
  • In most jurisdictions, ventless logs are not allowed in bedrooms. Some cities do not allow them at all. 
  • Most manufacturers state that when using non-venting logs a window must be opened, which defeats the purpose of warming the house.
  • Most manufacturers state that their log sets may only be used for short periods of time. 
  • Never install any type of gas logs into a prefabricated or manufacturered fireplace – any alterations to this type of fireplace can cause overheating and potentially a house fire.  Check with the manufacturer first before making any changes.

Suggestions:

  • If you already have a set of non-venting gas logs, read the owner’s manual thoroughly and have the set serviced at least once annually by a qualified service technician to make sure they are in good working order and CO levels are low. 
  • If considering ventless gas logs, I suggest looking into Direct Vent gas inserts or freestanding stoves instead. This technology is a sealed system which uses outside air for combustion and exhausts toxic gases and moisture to the outside. Inserts can be installed into masonry chimneys and if the interior chimney is damaged it does not need to be repaired in most cases. DV inserts and stoves are high-efficiency units.
  • Have the house checked for negative pressure and air exchanges, especially after insulating the home or adding thermal windows. If there is a problem, add a whole-house ventilator.

 

 

 

Posted in Chimney Problems, Gas logs, Masonry Chimneys | 34 Comments

What you don’t know about your utility flue can be deadly

Posted on October 17, 2009 by admin
Missing mortar joints and gaps in the liner

Missing mortar joints and gaps in the liner

By Marge Padgitt 

Utility flues serving furnaces, water heaters, and boilers are often forgotten and ignored, yet can pose serious hazards for the occupants of the home. Most problems lie with older masonry chimneys with clay tile flue liners, or chimneys without liners. Homeowners are generally not aware that these flues need to be inspected annually as recommended by the National Fire Protection Association 211 Standards, and that professional chimney sweeps maintain these flues. HVAC contractors do not sweep or inspect flues, or install replacement flue liners.

 Masonry chimneys deteriorate over time, starting from the interior, due to exposure to rain and acidic flue gasses, which damage mortar and clay tile liners. Over a period of years, this mortar falls and accumulates at the bottom of the flue, sometimes causing large restrictions that can cause carbon monoxide backup. Flue liners have been required by code since 1927, yet many homes built prior to 1950 do not have liners. Flue liners are installed to provide a complete sealed exit for toxic flue gases. They have mortar joints between each two-foot section of tile. But mortar joints that are deteriorated, have holes, or are missing can allow gases to escape the flue liner and enter the living space via a neighboring flue liner serving a fireplace, or through the masonry chimney.

Masonry chimneys are designed to last for many years as long as they are maintained. However, lack of homeowner education usually results in improperly maintained chimneys and flues, which can be a health hazard to the occupants and cause appliances to work inefficiently. Flue liner size is very important – and must be correct in order for draft to occur. A flue liner that is too large for the appliance may cause backup of gases. This is common in homes where newer, mid-efficiency appliances have been installed which need a smaller liner, and in cases where a high-efficiency furnace is installed and vented through the side of the house, leaving an “abandoned” hot water heater to vent on its own in a flue that is very over sized.

Carbon monoxide is an odorless, tasteless, colorless gas that is the by-product of incomplete combustion. The current standard for CO alarms is 9 ppm, however, recent testing proves that even very low levels of CO exposure over a long period of time can cause irreversible brain and organ damage. The Environmental Protection Agency states that CO detectors are to be used as a backup and are not a replacement for maintenance of appliances and flues. Even so, the EPA recommends the use of CO detectors placed strategically throughout the house.

Dr. David Penney, author of Carbon Monoxide Toxicity and professor of Physiology at Wayne State Univsersity School of Medicine has devoted years of research to this topic and posts his findings on his website at www.coheadquarters.com. Penney suggests that SIDS may be due to low level CO exposure and that children, the elderly, and pets are more susceptible to its effects.

According to the Center for Disease Control, 15,000 people visit emergency rooms and 500 people die every year due to CO poisoning. Symptoms of CO poisoning may include flu-like symptoms that go away or lessen after leaving the house, unexplained headaches, nausea, and dizziness; fainting, muscle weakness, inability to wake up, and death. If more than one family member has the same symptoms the EPA recommends visiting a doctor or hospital and mentioning that you suspect CO exposure.

Original flue was too large for the furance

Original flue was too large for the furance

Utility flue safety tips:

  • Have the flue checked annually by a CSIA Certified Chimney Sweep who will look for clogs caused by bird nests, leaves, debris, dead animals, and mortar or bricks, cracked flue tiles, missing tiles, and missing mortar joints.

  • Have a heavy duty stainless steel chimney cover installed to keep damaging rain and animals out of the flue.

  • Make sure the flue is sized correctly to the appliances

  • Never connect another appliance (water heater excepted) to the same flue as a furnace or boiler

  • Have the flue examined when changing appliances

  • Install CO detectors

According to a chimney sweep in Kansas City, Missouri, he has encountered numerous utility flue problems over the years, citing that it is a common issue. “People don’t think about the inside of their chimney and it is usually ignored until a chimney sweep finds a problem or someone gets ill,” stated the sweep. In one example, another chimney sweep broke out flue tiles and left them in the flue, clogging it completely, which made the homeowners very ill for weeks. In another example, over five feet of debris was removed from a boiler flue that had not been maintained for years and had blocked the flue by 90 percent. The clog caused an entire church congregation to become very ill.

 Resources:

Midwest Chimney Safety Council
Chimney Safety Institute of America
National Fire Protection Association
CO Headquarters
Environmental Protection Agency

Marge Padgitt, Education Director for the Midwest Chimney Safety Council, is available to speak to groups about chimney safety issues, appliance installation and maintenance, choosing a wood-burning appliance, chimney construction, and codes. Contact her at margepadgitt@comcast.net.

 

Posted in Chimney Problems, Masonry Chimneys, Safety Tips | Tagged , , | 63 Comments

New Alternative Energy Examiner

Posted on September 23, 2009 by admin

I’m now the Alternative Energy Examiner for Examiner.com.  You can see more articles on my site at http://www.examiner.com/x-17092-Kansas-City-Alternative-Energy-Examiner.  If you’d like to keep informed of the latest article additions, you are welcome to join my e-mail list from that site.

Also, if you’d like to join the monthly newsletter list for HearthMasters, just drop me a line.  

Marge Padgitt
HearthMasters
Padgitt Chimney & Fireplace
Independence, MO
www.chimkc.com
816-461-3665

Posted in Masonry Chimneys | 61 Comments

Choosing and Storing Firewood

Posted on September 23, 2009 by admin
Using the right firewood can make all the difference in the performance of your fireplace or wood stove. Too often people complain of a poorly performing appliance when often the only thing wrong is their choice of wood. 
   The most important thing to remember is to always use DRY, SEASONED wood.  It doesn’t matter if it is hard (broadleaf trees) or soft wood (conifers) because you’ll get the same BTUs per pound; but since soft wood is less dense it will take more wood to get the same amount of heat.  This may not be important when burning in an open fireplace for ambiance, but it makes a difference when heating with a wood stove.  You’ll need to load the solve more often with soft wood.
   In order to assure that you have seasoned, dry wood, purchase or cut wood at least six months to a year prior to using it.  Make sure the wood is split, cut, and stacked off the ground and that it is covered with some type of protection to keep the rain off of it.  Wood cannot dry out otherwise.
   Check to see if the wood is dry by looking at the cut end where you should see cracks.  When you bang two pieces together it should be a hollow sound.  Alternatively, purchase an inexpensive wood moisture meter (we have them) and test the wood that way to be sure it is has a low (below 20%) moisture content.  
   Common hardwoods native to Missouri and Kansas are Black Locust, Dogwood, Oak,  Hickory, Holly, Honey Locust, Elm, Hard Maple, Mulberry, Pecan, Osage Orange, Persimmon, Red Oak, White Oak, and Shorleaf Pine. Common medium to soft woods are Soft Maple, Cyprus, Cottonwood, Boxelder, Blackwillow, and Basswood. For a complete list of hard, medium, and soft woods and how to identify them visit the Missouri Department of Conservation Website.
   For heating purposes, seasoned split oak is the best and the most readily available in this area.   
 TIPS:
- Never burn railroad ties
- Never burn Christmas tree,s which can cause a chimney fire
- Never burn treated wood or colored paper because toxic fumes from them are very harmful
- Don’t burn wet wood – it takes more heat to burn out the moisture than you can benefit from!
- ALL wood creates creosote – even dry hardwoods - so have your chimney inspected annually (more often for woodstoves) and swept as necessary by a professional CSIA Certified Chimney Sweep.
Posted in Masonry Chimneys | 14 Comments

Masonry Heaters Best Option for Heating with Wood

Posted on May 7, 2009 by admin

Masonry Heaters Best Option for Heating with Wood
By Marge Padgitt

Masonry heaters have been around for hundreds of years in Europe, but are just recently catching on in the U.S. And the great thing about heaters is that they are GREEN. People needed to heat their homes in an efficient manner in olden times just as today in order to save their forests. Inefficient open fireplaces took too much of their valuable resources, so another method had to be developed. No one knows who the first mason was who came up with the idea of devising something that would retain heat for long periods of time, then radiate it into the home while using much less wood, but whoever he was he was a genius.

Masonry heaters have been redesigned and altered over the years by different masons in Finland, Russia, Germany, Austria, and the United States. But heaters all have the same characteristics with complex channels to slow down and trap heat from flue gasses, and a mass of masonry to retain that heat, then radiate it to the living space over a period of up to 20 hours. By the time the products of combustion get to the exit of the flue, the smoke is white and the particulate emissions are very low. One load of wood can usually provide heating for the average size home for 8-12 hours. Compared to even the best high-efficiency wood–burning stoves on the market today, gas and oil-fired furnaces, and certainly inefficient open fireplaces, masonry heaters can’t be beat. Homeowners may use a masonry heater as their sole source of heat, or in conjunction with another system.

Another benefit masonry heaters offer is that they don’t require electricity, gas, or ductwork to distribute the heat. In a properly designed home with an open floor plan and the heater in the center of the home, the heat will radiate evenly throughout. Ideally, heaters are built in new home construction, but they can be added to existing homes if the layout is right. If planned in a passive solar home, the masonry mass of the heater will also absorb and radiate heat from the sun. Heaters require a suitable foundation to support the massive masonry, which weighs three to six tons by the time all of the firebrick, block, cast iron doors, dampers, and exterior masonry facing is installed.

Heaters can be enhanced with heated benches to sit on, mantels, wood storage bins, and even bake ovens. Pizza and bread from a wood-fired bake oven has an incredible and unique taste that is not to be missed, and entire meals can be cooked in the oven if desired. An experienced heater mason can not only design and build the right size and type of heater for a home, but make it beautiful to look at as well. An exterior finish of soapstone, tile, sandstone, or brick can make a dramatic statement. Heater masons will work with the homeowner to come up with a custom design that suits the home, or use one of many masonry heater kits that are available from several manufacturers (usually incorporating soapstone) in a variety of designs.

Use of natural non-toxic materials and the renewable resource of wood make masonry heaters the perfect solution for a green home.

The trade is very specialized, with only a few heater masons scattered across the U.S. Fortunately, most of these masons will travel to do installations. Some have even traveled to Japan, China, and South America to build heaters. Often several heater masons will help each other out since these are big projects. In days of old, the heater masons kept their trade secret, even to the point of not leaving the room until the heater was completely finished so no one else could see how the interior was built. At that time, the livelihood of the masons was dependent on this secrecy. The trade is so skilled that the only way to learn is to do hands-on assistance with an experienced heater mason, and that is part of the reason the Masonry Heater Association was formed. The older masons do not want this to become a lost art, so they help train others. The Certified Heater Mason program was developed by the experienced MHA members in order to assure that the knowledge is not lost.

In the U.S. most people are not yet aware of masonry heaters, so it is a challenge for a heater mason to make a living out of just building heaters. Most heater masons also build other types of projects such as fireplaces, chimneys and outdoor bake ovens. Some are timber frame or log home builders or own brickyards. Most are very aware of the green building trend and are interested in sustainable living. Many heater masons will travel to build a heater because they love doing it, and because they love the satisfaction they get out of building something that is very specialized.

Pricing for heaters is what most would consider being on the high end, and a long-term investment. The average cost a homeowner may expect to pay is from $18,000 to $30,000, with price depending on the complexity of the heater, material costs, and labor. The expected time to get a return on your money is approximately 10 years. The time to build a completed heater may be more than four weeks, depending on how many skilled craftspeople are working. Many homeowners will elect to be an assistant on the job in order to lower their costs. In some cases, if a heater mason is traveling the homeowner will put him up at their house or a local hotel. When traveling the masons usually work long hours in order to get the project done sooner.

Mark Twain discovered masonry heaters while traveling through Europe and wrote about them: “All day long and until past midnight all parts of the room will be delightfully warm and comfortable … Its surface is not hot: you can put your hand on it anywhere and not get burnt. Consider these things. One firing is enough for the day: the cost is next to nothing: the heat produced is the same all day, instead of too hot and too cold by turns… America could adopt this stove, but does America do it? No, she sticks placidly to her own fearful and wonderful inventions in the stove line. The American wood stove, of whatever breed, is a terror. It requires more attention that a baby. It has to be fed every little while, it has to be watched all the time: and for all reward you are roasted half your time and frozen the other half… and when your wood bill comes in you think you have been supporting a volcano. It is certainly strange that useful customs and devices do not spread from country to country with more facility and promptness than they do.”

To find out more about masonry heaters visit www.chimkc.com or www.mha-net.org.  I set up a chat list set up for anyone interested in masonry heaters at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/MasonryHeaters

 Marge Padgitt sits on the board of directors for the MHA and is president of Padgitt Chimney & Fireplace in Kansas City, Missouri. Her husband, Gene Padgitt, is a Certified Heater Mason.
 

 

 

Posted in Masonry Heaters | 21 Comments