Hire a Qualified Specialty Contractor for Historic Chimney Restoration Work

November 20th, 2009
Gene Padgitt at work on an 1880s Victorian chimney

Gene Padgitt at work on an 1880s Victorian chimney

1880's Victorian chimney completed

1880's Victorian chimney completed

Most homeowners and contractors are not aware that training in Historic Chimney and Fireplace restoration is limited, and there are very few masons and/or chimney contractors who do this type of work across the U.S.  Many contractors are not aware of the International Residential Code requirements or NFPA 211 Standards for Chimneys and Fireplaces – or that each city has its own set of rules.  Additionally, the original look of the exterior chimney and fireplace must be retained, which is outside the scope of standard masonry training.  Historic masonry style, bricks, and mortar – are much different now than they were in the 1700’s and 1800’s.  The main difference is that lime mortar was used with very thin “butter” joints.  The mortar was often dyed to match the bricks for a more pleasing appearance. Typically, chimneys were built with “Little Reds” style bricks, which are still available in limited supply from brickyards that keep historic bricks on hand. These bricks are no longer made.

Homeowners should also be aware that the structure must be brought up to current codes and standards before attempting to use a fireplace.  This is required by code at the time of sale of any residential property. Following are some tips for homeowners:

 - Hire a professional chimney inspector to inspect all chimneys, flues, fireplaces, wood stoves, or gas appliances once a year and at the time of purchase of a home.  Home inspectors do not normally get the necessary training in this area that Chimney Safety Institute of America Certified Chimney Sweeps do.  Home Inspectors do not normally have the proper equipment to perform an adequate chimney inspection. The interior of chimneys cannot be evaluated with the naked eye, so a Chim-Scan camera is used.

- Get recommendations for repair options from the chimney inspector, who will also likely do repair work.  Be sure to check credentials and insurance.  Other credentials to look for in an inspector are National Fireplace Institute Certifications in Wood and/or Gas. Some inspectors are also Fire Investigators. Ask to see samples of their work and a list of references where work on historic chimneys was performed.

 - The item most often needed when doing historic chimney restoration work is a chimney flue liner.  Liners are required by code and must be a U.L. listed and/or approved product.  Types of flue liners vary from stainless steel, custom stainless steel, and Ceramic poured systems (as seen on This Old House).  Clay tile liners are generally no longer used in restoration work due to the difficulty in getting them installed properly and the fact that there is no warranty on the materials by the manufacturers.  Clay tiles break when chimney fires occur, whereas stainless steel or ceramic flue liners can withstand temperatures up to 2100 degrees without failing.

- Look for a contractor who has experience in building Rumford fireplaces or installing Bellfires fireplaces if you want an open wood-burning fireplace, or someone experienced in gas appliance installation. 

- Look for a contractor who is specifically skilled in historic masonry restoration and ask to see photos of their work and references. 

- Your city may also require that the contractor has a Master Mechanical License. Ask for proof of this license. The contractor must pull the permit for the work in most cases.

 -There are many options for historic fireplace restoration available now, including historic style mantels, open historic yet functional Rumford style fireplaces, historic look wood stove inserts and freestanding stoves, and closed direct vent gas fireplaces with an historic look.

 - As with any contractor, ask for certificates of insurance for Worker’s Comp and Liability, proof of any Certifications, MM License and work samples. 

 
Links for more information:

Midwest Chimney Safety Council: www.mcsc-net.org  (The MCSC does historic chimney restoration seminars)
Hearth, Patio, and Barbecue Association: www.hpba.org (find a list of certified installers and list of manufacturer websites here)
Chimney Safety Institute of America: www.csia.org (list of Certified Chimney Sweeps)
Thelin period look Wood and Gas freestanding stoves: www.thelinco.com – and find a list of dealers on their site
Hearthstone period look gas fireplace inserts: www.hearthstonestoves.com – and fild a list of dealers on their site

Posted in Masonry Chimneys | 1 Comment »

Heating Your Straw Bale Home With Wood

November 20th, 2009

By Marge Padgitt

Today’s options for heating with wood are varied and high-tech. Manufacturers have now had over 30 years to perfect their art; new appliances are much improved over their predecessor’s, offering high-efficiency and low emissions, and appliances that use much less wood to provide the same amount of heat. Using the renewable resource of wood makes modern wood-burning appliances very “Green” and earth-friendly. Homeowners now have a large selection in wood-burning heating options. Since straw bale homes are so well insulated, you’ll need an appliance with less BTU’s than a standard house would. A home with an open floor plan will work best with any type of indoor heating appliance such as a fireplace, stove, or masonry heater.

 The Rumford Fireplace– Designed by Count Rumford in the 1700’s, the shallow depth, curved throat, angled side walls, and higher opening, combined with a smaller flue provide much more heat than the standard “box style” masonry fireplace. Compared to a standard fireplace, which produces –30% to +5% in efficiency (meaning most of the heat goes up the chimney), the +40% efficiency Rumford far surpasses its competitor. Recent testing shows that properly designed and built Rumford fireplaces, are very clean burning and produce low emissions. Don’t expect to heat the entire house, but a Rumford will definitely heat the room it is in and  more.

Not all masons are trained properly in this method of fireplace building, so find a qualified Rumford builder at www.rumford.com, www.csia.org, or www.midwestcsc.org. Estimated 40,000 + BTU output.

Wood-burning Stoves- Gone are the days of the catalytic combustor, since the new EPA approved “non-catalytic” appliances are extremely low in emissions. Today’s wood stoves require less wood to heat the same amount of space, and that translates into savings in the cost of wood, and in your time to prep wood and load the stove. Where loading was once required every 2 –3 hours, it is now only needed every 4-10 hours. The addition of an electric built-in blower will push the warmed air through the house, but is not necessary for the stove to work.

A wood-burning stove can be installed almost anywhere, provided there is an existing chimney that can be used, or an outside wall where a Class A chimney can be installed. Masonry chimneys require the installation of a 6” – 8” insulated stainless steel chimney liner.

Wood stoves come in a variety of styles including standard matte black or a beautiful porcelain enamel finish, and are constructed of heavy steel, cast iron, or soapstone. All stoves require a non-combustible floor and clearance to combustible walls, which is different with each manufacturer. The old 36” rule no longer applies with the newer models, so more usable space is available in the room. The EPA regulates woodburning stoves so be sure to get one that is EPA approved and do not use an older model. A professional should do the installation. 55,000—85,000 or highter BTU output. Many stoves qualify for the 30% tax credit.

Pellet/Corn/Bio-fuel Stoves- Available as free-standing or as a fireplace insert, this is a stove that uses small, compressed pellets made from waste sawdust, corn, wheat, or cherry pits. Some stoves will burn two or more different fuels, and other stoves will burn only one type of fuel. A hopper contains the fuel, while an augur feeds the fuel at a specified rate into a burn pot. Electricity is needed for this stove to work, and daily and/or weekly maintenance is required by the homeowner. Annual maintenance by a chimney sweep is required. Fuel can sometimes be difficult to obtain in some areas. Low emmisions at an average of 1.2 particulate grams per hour. 7,000 – 60,000 BTU’s. Bio-fuel furnaces and boilers are also available, and produce up to 113,000 BTU’s.  Pellet stoves qualify for the 30% tax credit in 2009-2010.

Wood-burning Furnace/boiler – Designed to heat an entire house or building. Woodburning furnaces may be installed inside or outside the home in a shed, or in its own covered steel shed. Most furnaces have electric fans and use ductwork to distribute the heat throughout the home, boilers use the hydronic underfloor method to distribute heat.

Either a Class A stainless steel chimney is required; or if using a masonry chimney, an approved stainless steel flue liner is necessary. It is extremely important to have a professional CSIA Certified Chimney Sweep or approved manufacturer installer do the analysis of the installation area and the actual installation of the furnace and flue. This is not a do-it-yourselfer project, as there are many critical items that must be taken into consideration including size of flue, location of the furnace, distance of the connecting pipe run, type of materials used, clearances to combustibles, etc. Find an installer at www.csia.org, or www.nficertified.org orask the manufacturer for help in finding a qualified dealer. Do your homework when selecting a furnace or boiler as there are large differences in efficiency. The EPA currently has no restrictions on woodburning furnaces in most states (except California, Washington, Oregon, and Colorado), but has plans to do so soon. There are some new boilers and furnaces that meet EPA standards for efficiency and qualify for the 2009-2010 tax credit. 80,000—300,000 BTU output.

Masonry Heaters– Arguably the best value in heating alternatives, masonry heaters are old world technology at its best, and are definately “green,” since they are built with natural masonry materials. Designed with a site-built or pre-cast heater core inside of a brick, stone, tile, stucco, or soapstone exterior, and built on site. The masonry mass will be at least 1,760 lbs. The heater has tight fitting doors that are closed during the burn cycle. It has an interior construction consisting of a firebox and heat exchange channels built from refractory components. A masonry heater has the ability to store a very large amount of heat, which means that you can rapidly burn a large amount of wood without overheating the house. The heat is stored in the masonry thermal mass, and then slowly radiates for the next 18 to 24 hours. Loading of wood is only required approximately once every 12 hours. The heater burns the wood quickly and all of the energy in the wood is used so there is no waste. The heater burns very clean, and practically no emissions are produced, so heaters environmentally friendly.
This type of heater, designed and used extensively in Europe, is now gaining popularity in the U.S. The initial cost is more than other types of heating, but due to the savings in energy bills that cost can be recuperated in as little as seven years. The heat is evenly distributed through the home without the use of ductwork or forced air. It is best to design the home around a masonry heater to get the maximum efficiency—homes that have large, open spaces and tall ceilings are well suited for this type of heating appliance.
Added features may be a pizza/bread oven, a heated bench, mantles, heated hot water, and wood storage spaces. A masonry heater should be built by a qualified heater-mason contractor. Find a builder and get more information about how masonry heaters work on the Masonry Heater Association of North America website at www.mha-net.org. 80,000—250,000 BTU output.

Internet Resources:

National Chimney Sweep Guild: www.ncsg.org

Chimney Safety Institute of America: www.csia.org

Midwest Chimney Safety Council: www.midwestcsc.org

Masonry Heater Association of North America: www.mha-net.org

National Fireplace Institute: www.nficertified.org

Rumford Fireplaces: www.rumford.com

Hearth, Patio, and Barbecue Association: www.hpba.org

 

Marge Padgitt is the president of HearthMasters, Inc. in Kansas City, Missouri, and has 25 years experience in the chimney and hearth industry. She is a CSIA Certified Chimney Sweep, an NFI Certified Woodburning Specialist, was on the board of directors for the Masonry Heater Association of North America, and is the Vice-President and Educational Director for the Midwest Chimney Safety Council. She can be contacted at marepadgitt@comcast.net or 816-461-3665.

 

 

Posted in Masonry Chimneys, Masonry Heaters, Straw Bale Homes | 3 Comments »

What you need to know about non-venting gas logs

November 3rd, 2009
Gas logs by Hargrove

Gas logs by Hargrove

By Marge Padgitt

Ventless or “non-venting” gas logs are more efficient than venting gas logs, which makes them a popular choice among consumers. However, there are some points about this type of appliance that consumers are not always made aware of before their purchase. As a service company, we have seen many issues with ventless log sets in the field after homeowners have a problem, and have first-hand knowledge of these issues.

Vent-free gas-burning log sets are advertised as being 99% efficient, which means that virtually all of the heat produced is kept in the house, rather than going out the chimney. However, this also means that the water vapor produced by the burning of gas also stays in the house- and this can be significant over a period of time. For this reason, it is my opinion that ventless logs should never be installed in a small room in a well-insulated home. Some of our customers have had mold issues caused by the excessive moisture.

The biggest complaint we receive is a strong odor when the logs are in use – at times so bad that the homeowner discontinues use of the fireplace. The source of the odor is off-gassing of items in the house such as furniture, carpet, cabinets, or chemicals like paint or bleach, which lurks in the air. In order to produce flame, the logs need oxygen, which is obtained from the air inside the house. After the chemicals are burned, they change composition and mild to strong odors may result. With venting gas logs, the odor is sent up the chimney, but with ventless logs, the odors remain in the house. 

Another issue, especially with older ventless sets is the level of Carbon Monoxide emissions. Currently, the acceptable level is 9ppm (parts per million), which means that if a log set tests at 9ppm or below, it is approved for installation in a home. Some of the sets we have tested in the field, however, are producing up to 24ppm. Notable is Dr. David Penney’s opinion that no level of CO exposure is OK for anyone, even low levels under 9ppm over a long period of time. According to Penney, it has been proven that low level exposure to CO can cause headaches, nausea, dizziness, and permanent brain damage. He suspects that CO may be a cause of Sudden Infant Death Syndrome. 

With today’s tighter, well-insulated homes, the exposure to CO is a great concern. The Environmental Protection Agency recommends a minimum of six air exchanges per day, which does not occur in many newer homes. Another issue that is complicated by tight homes is negative pressure. Negative house pressure can cause back up of flue gases from venting and non-venting gas logs and woodburning appliances, as well as furnaces and hot water heaters- which may go unnoticed by the homeowner. If testing shows negative pressure in the house a solution is to provide a whole house ventilator, such at the USPlus-Aire, which when connected to the furnace supply and return air and to the outside, provides the needed air for the home on demand whether the furnace is off or on. 

A simple test for negative pressure is to tape some newspaper strips to the front face of the fireplace during cold weather. Make sure the doors of the house are closed and all fans are off. If the paper moves outward, into the room, there is a high possibility that negative pressure is an issue. This is always worse on the lower levels of the home. Now slowly open a window and watch the paper. At the point where the paper moves back into the fireplace stop and measure the opening of the window. This is the amount of air needed to add to the house to correct the problem for that appliance only. More air will likely be needed for other appliances to function properly. Note: adding an outside air source directly to the fireplace for combustion air is not the best solution since it dumps cold air on a fire and makes it less efficient. 

Manufacturer and Code Requirements:

  •  If a set is installed into a regular masonry chimney with a clay tile liner the entire chimney must be in good working order. So installation of a ventless gas log set is not a solution for a damaged chimney. 
  • In most jurisdictions, ventless logs are not allowed in bedrooms. Some cities do not allow them at all. 
  • Most manufacturers state that when using non-venting logs a window must be opened, which defeats the purpose of warming the house.
  • Most manufacturers state that their log sets may only be used for short periods of time. 
  • Never install any type of gas logs into a prefabricated or manufacturered fireplace – any alterations to this type of fireplace can cause overheating and potentially a house fire.  Check with the manufacturer first before making any changes.

Suggestions:

  • If you already have a set of non-venting gas logs, read the owner’s manual thoroughly and have the set serviced at least once annually by a qualified service technician to make sure they are in good working order and CO levels are low. 
  • If considering ventless gas logs, I suggest looking into Direct Vent gas inserts or freestanding stoves instead. This technology is a sealed system which uses outside air for combustion and exhausts toxic gases and moisture to the outside. Inserts can be installed into masonry chimneys and if the interior chimney is damaged it does not need to be repaired in most cases. DV inserts and stoves are high-efficiency units.
  • Have the house checked for negative pressure and air exchanges, especially after insulating the home or adding thermal windows. If there is a problem, add a whole-house ventilator.

 

 

 

Posted in Chimney Problems, Gas logs, Masonry Chimneys | 2 Comments »

What you don’t know about your utility flue can be deadly

October 17th, 2009
Missing mortar joints and gaps in the liner

Missing mortar joints and gaps in the liner

By Marge Padgitt 

Utility flues serving furnaces, water heaters, and boilers are often forgotten and ignored, yet can pose serious hazards for the occupants of the home. Most problems lie with older masonry chimneys with clay tile flue liners, or chimneys without liners. Homeowners are generally not aware that these flues need to be inspected annually as recommended by the National Fire Protection Association 211 Standards, and that professional chimney sweeps maintain these flues. HVAC contractors do not sweep or inspect flues, or install replacement flue liners.

 Masonry chimneys deteriorate over time, starting from the interior, due to exposure to rain and acidic flue gasses, which damage mortar and clay tile liners. Over a period of years, this mortar falls and accumulates at the bottom of the flue, sometimes causing large restrictions that can cause carbon monoxide backup. Flue liners have been required by code since 1927, yet many homes built prior to 1950 do not have liners. Flue liners are installed to provide a complete sealed exit for toxic flue gases. They have mortar joints between each two-foot section of tile. But mortar joints that are deteriorated, have holes, or are missing can allow gases to escape the flue liner and enter the living space via a neighboring flue liner serving a fireplace, or through the masonry chimney.

Masonry chimneys are designed to last for many years as long as they are maintained. However, lack of homeowner education usually results in improperly maintained chimneys and flues, which can be a health hazard to the occupants and cause appliances to work inefficiently. Flue liner size is very important – and must be correct in order for draft to occur. A flue liner that is too large for the appliance may cause backup of gases. This is common in homes where newer, mid-efficiency appliances have been installed which need a smaller liner, and in cases where a high-efficiency furnace is installed and vented through the side of the house, leaving an “abandoned” hot water heater to vent on its own in a flue that is very over sized.

Carbon monoxide is an odorless, tasteless, colorless gas that is the by-product of incomplete combustion. The current standard for CO alarms is 9 ppm, however, recent testing proves that even very low levels of CO exposure over a long period of time can cause irreversible brain and organ damage. The Environmental Protection Agency states that CO detectors are to be used as a backup and are not a replacement for maintenance of appliances and flues. Even so, the EPA recommends the use of CO detectors placed strategically throughout the house.

Dr. David Penney, author of Carbon Monoxide Toxicity and professor of Physiology at Wayne State Univsersity School of Medicine has devoted years of research to this topic and posts his findings on his website at www.coheadquarters.com. Penney suggests that SIDS may be due to low level CO exposure and that children, the elderly, and pets are more susceptible to its effects.

According to the Center for Disease Control, 15,000 people visit emergency rooms and 500 people die every year due to CO poisoning. Symptoms of CO poisoning may include flu-like symptoms that go away or lessen after leaving the house, unexplained headaches, nausea, and dizziness; fainting, muscle weakness, inability to wake up, and death. If more than one family member has the same symptoms the EPA recommends visiting a doctor or hospital and mentioning that you suspect CO exposure.

Original flue was too large for the furance

Original flue was too large for the furance

Utility flue safety tips:

  • Have the flue checked annually by a CSIA Certified Chimney Sweep who will look for clogs caused by bird nests, leaves, debris, dead animals, and mortar or bricks, cracked flue tiles, missing tiles, and missing mortar joints.

  • Have a heavy duty stainless steel chimney cover installed to keep damaging rain and animals out of the flue.

  • Make sure the flue is sized correctly to the appliances

  • Never connect another appliance (water heater excepted) to the same flue as a furnace or boiler

  • Have the flue examined when changing appliances

  • Install CO detectors

According to a chimney sweep in Kansas City, Missouri, he has encountered numerous utility flue problems over the years, citing that it is a common issue. “People don’t think about the inside of their chimney and it is usually ignored until a chimney sweep finds a problem or someone gets ill,” stated the sweep. In one example, another chimney sweep broke out flue tiles and left them in the flue, clogging it completely, which made the homeowners very ill for weeks. In another example, over five feet of debris was removed from a boiler flue that had not been maintained for years and had blocked the flue by 90 percent. The clog caused an entire church congregation to become very ill.

 Resources:

Midwest Chimney Safety Council
Chimney Safety Institute of America
National Fire Protection Association
CO Headquarters
Environmental Protection Agency

Marge Padgitt, Education Director for the Midwest Chimney Safety Council, is available to speak to groups about chimney safety issues, appliance installation and maintenance, choosing a wood-burning appliance, chimney construction, and codes. Contact her at margepadgitt@comcast.net.

 

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Posted in Chimney Problems, Masonry Chimneys, Safety Tips | 10 Comments »

New Alternative Energy Examiner

September 23rd, 2009

I’m now the Alternative Energy Examiner for Examiner.com.  You can see more articles on my site at http://www.examiner.com/x-17092-Kansas-City-Alternative-Energy-Examiner.  If you’d like to keep informed of the latest article additions, you are welcome to join my e-mail list from that site.

Also, if you’d like to join the monthly newsletter list for HearthMasters, just drop me a line.  

Marge Padgitt
HearthMasters
Padgitt Chimney & Fireplace
Independence, MO
www.chimkc.com
816-461-3665

Posted in Masonry Chimneys | 6 Comments »

Choosing and Storing Firewood

September 23rd, 2009
Using the right firewood can make all the difference in the performance of your fireplace or wood stove. Too often people complain of a poorly performing appliance when often the only thing wrong is their choice of wood. 
   The most important thing to remember is to always use DRY, SEASONED wood.  It doesn’t matter if it is hard (broadleaf trees) or soft wood (conifers) because you’ll get the same BTUs per pound; but since soft wood is less dense it will take more wood to get the same amount of heat.  This may not be important when burning in an open fireplace for ambiance, but it makes a difference when heating with a wood stove.  You’ll need to load the solve more often with soft wood.
   In order to assure that you have seasoned, dry wood, purchase or cut wood at least six months to a year prior to using it.  Make sure the wood is split, cut, and stacked off the ground and that it is covered with some type of protection to keep the rain off of it.  Wood cannot dry out otherwise.
   Check to see if the wood is dry by looking at the cut end where you should see cracks.  When you bang two pieces together it should be a hollow sound.  Alternatively, purchase an inexpensive wood moisture meter (we have them) and test the wood that way to be sure it is has a low (below 20%) moisture content.  
   Common hardwoods native to Missouri and Kansas are Black Locust, Dogwood, Oak,  Hickory, Holly, Honey Locust, Elm, Hard Maple, Mulberry, Pecan, Osage Orange, Persimmon, Red Oak, White Oak, and Shorleaf Pine. Common medium to soft woods are Soft Maple, Cyprus, Cottonwood, Boxelder, Blackwillow, and Basswood. For a complete list of hard, medium, and soft woods and how to identify them visit the Missouri Department of Conservation Website.
   For heating purposes, seasoned split oak is the best and the most readily available in this area.   
 TIPS:
- Never burn railroad ties
- Never burn Christmas tree,s which can cause a chimney fire
- Never burn treated wood or colored paper because toxic fumes from them are very harmful
- Don’t burn wet wood – it takes more heat to burn out the moisture than you can benefit from!
- ALL wood creates creosote – even dry hardwoods - so have your chimney inspected annually (more often for woodstoves) and swept as necessary by a professional CSIA Certified Chimney Sweep.

Posted in Masonry Chimneys | 2 Comments »

Masonry Heaters Best Option for Heating with Wood

May 7th, 2009

Masonry Heaters Best Option for Heating with Wood
By Marge Padgitt

Masonry heaters have been around for hundreds of years in Europe, but are just recently catching on in the U.S. And the great thing about heaters is that they are GREEN. People needed to heat their homes in an efficient manner in olden times just as today in order to save their forests. Inefficient open fireplaces took too much of their valuable resources, so another method had to be developed. No one knows who the first mason was who came up with the idea of devising something that would retain heat for long periods of time, then radiate it into the home while using much less wood, but whoever he was he was a genius.

Masonry heaters have been redesigned and altered over the years by different masons in Finland, Russia, Germany, Austria, and the United States. But heaters all have the same characteristics with complex channels to slow down and trap heat from flue gasses, and a mass of masonry to retain that heat, then radiate it to the living space over a period of up to 20 hours. By the time the products of combustion get to the exit of the flue, the smoke is white and the particulate emissions are very low. One load of wood can usually provide heating for the average size home for 8-12 hours. Compared to even the best high-efficiency wood–burning stoves on the market today, gas and oil-fired furnaces, and certainly inefficient open fireplaces, masonry heaters can’t be beat. Homeowners may use a masonry heater as their sole source of heat, or in conjunction with another system.

Another benefit masonry heaters offer is that they don’t require electricity, gas, or ductwork to distribute the heat. In a properly designed home with an open floor plan and the heater in the center of the home, the heat will radiate evenly throughout. Ideally, heaters are built in new home construction, but they can be added to existing homes if the layout is right. If planned in a passive solar home, the masonry mass of the heater will also absorb and radiate heat from the sun. Heaters require a suitable foundation to support the massive masonry, which weighs three to six tons by the time all of the firebrick, block, cast iron doors, dampers, and exterior masonry facing is installed.

Heaters can be enhanced with heated benches to sit on, mantels, wood storage bins, and even bake ovens. Pizza and bread from a wood-fired bake oven has an incredible and unique taste that is not to be missed, and entire meals can be cooked in the oven if desired. An experienced heater mason can not only design and build the right size and type of heater for a home, but make it beautiful to look at as well. An exterior finish of soapstone, tile, sandstone, or brick can make a dramatic statement. Heater masons will work with the homeowner to come up with a custom design that suits the home, or use one of many masonry heater kits that are available from several manufacturers (usually incorporating soapstone) in a variety of designs.

Use of natural non-toxic materials and the renewable resource of wood make masonry heaters the perfect solution for a green home.

The trade is very specialized, with only a few heater masons scattered across the U.S. Fortunately, most of these masons will travel to do installations. Some have even traveled to Japan, China, and South America to build heaters. Often several heater masons will help each other out since these are big projects. In days of old, the heater masons kept their trade secret, even to the point of not leaving the room until the heater was completely finished so no one else could see how the interior was built. At that time, the livelihood of the masons was dependent on this secrecy. The trade is so skilled that the only way to learn is to do hands-on assistance with an experienced heater mason, and that is part of the reason the Masonry Heater Association was formed. The older masons do not want this to become a lost art, so they help train others. The Certified Heater Mason program was developed by the experienced MHA members in order to assure that the knowledge is not lost.

In the U.S. most people are not yet aware of masonry heaters, so it is a challenge for a heater mason to make a living out of just building heaters. Most heater masons also build other types of projects such as fireplaces, chimneys and outdoor bake ovens. Some are timber frame or log home builders or own brickyards. Most are very aware of the green building trend and are interested in sustainable living. Many heater masons will travel to build a heater because they love doing it, and because they love the satisfaction they get out of building something that is very specialized.

Pricing for heaters is what most would consider being on the high end, and a long-term investment. The average cost a homeowner may expect to pay is from $18,000 to $30,000, with price depending on the complexity of the heater, material costs, and labor. The expected time to get a return on your money is approximately 10 years. The time to build a completed heater may be more than four weeks, depending on how many skilled craftspeople are working. Many homeowners will elect to be an assistant on the job in order to lower their costs. In some cases, if a heater mason is traveling the homeowner will put him up at their house or a local hotel. When traveling the masons usually work long hours in order to get the project done sooner.

Mark Twain discovered masonry heaters while traveling through Europe and wrote about them: “All day long and until past midnight all parts of the room will be delightfully warm and comfortable … Its surface is not hot: you can put your hand on it anywhere and not get burnt. Consider these things. One firing is enough for the day: the cost is next to nothing: the heat produced is the same all day, instead of too hot and too cold by turns… America could adopt this stove, but does America do it? No, she sticks placidly to her own fearful and wonderful inventions in the stove line. The American wood stove, of whatever breed, is a terror. It requires more attention that a baby. It has to be fed every little while, it has to be watched all the time: and for all reward you are roasted half your time and frozen the other half… and when your wood bill comes in you think you have been supporting a volcano. It is certainly strange that useful customs and devices do not spread from country to country with more facility and promptness than they do.”

To find out more about masonry heaters visit www.chimkc.com or www.mha-net.org.  I set up a chat list set up for anyone interested in masonry heaters at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/MasonryHeaters

 Marge Padgitt sits on the board of directors for the MHA and is president of Padgitt Chimney & Fireplace in Kansas City, Missouri. Her husband, Gene Padgitt, is a Certified Heater Mason.
 

 

 

Posted in Masonry Heaters | 4 Comments »

Bake Ovens and Fireplaces Enhance Outdoor Rooms

May 7th, 2009

Bake Ovens and Fireplaces Enhance Outdoor Rooms
By Marge Padgitt

The outdoor room concept is very popular across the U.S., and Kansas City is no exception. Outdoor fireplaces are definitely all about aesthetics, but they do keep the area in front of them warm, too. Sitting around the fireplace on a cool fall or spring evening is more comfortable and encourages people to stay outside longer. And roasting a few marshmallows for s’mores can’t be beat.

 

Outdoor fireplaces can actually be built more efficiently than a standard box-style fireplace by building in a Rumford style. Count Rumford created this design in the 1700’s and it has not been improved on since. Instead of a box with straight walls, the fireplace is built with a sloping back wall, angled side walls, and smooth throat transition. This allows more heat to be directed out of the fireplace—about 40% more heat than a box style. So when planning an outdoor masonry fireplace, homeowners may want to consider this method.

 

Another trend that is becoming more popular is the outdoor bake oven. This is a site-built brick oven or a pre-fabricated Italian oven that can be built alongside or on top of a fireplace, or as a stand-alone appliance. This is a “black” oven, meaning that wood is burned inside the oven where it turns black from the soot, then as the temperature gets higher the soot burns off. The ashes are removed after approximately three hours, leaving a 700-degree oven with even temperatures that are perfect for baking delicious pizzas. As the oven cools, artisan breads, and even whole meals can be cooked. Some folks “fire up” the oven weekly and bake their own breads, which are much healthier than store-bought bread.

 

My husband, Gene, a master mason who builds fireplaces and ovens, built us an outdoor bake oven in our own back yard. We often have guests over to have fun throwing pizza dough and making their own pizza, and everyone who tries it says that the pizza from the bake oven is by far the best they ever had. For more information on outdoor fireplaces and bake ovens please visit www.chimkc.com.

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HEATING SAFETY TIPS

May 7th, 2009

By Marge Padgitt

GAS FURNACE HEATING:
Every year, many people become ill or die due to a back up of Carbon Monoxide gasses from the furnace or hot water heater flue or connecting pipes.  This can be avoided with regular maintenance of the chimney.

Have the furnace flue checked annually by a CSIA Certified Chimney Sweep (www.csia.org) to be sure it is not clogged or damaged, and that there is no Carbon Monoxide backup into the home.
Make sure the flue is sized correctly to the appliances so it will draft well. Flues that are too large cause excessive condensation and damage the flue walls and mortar joints.
Keep trash and storage containers at least 3’ away from the heating system.
Have a heavy duty stainless steel chimney cover installed to keep damaging rain, animals, and debris out of the chimney.
Have the furnace checked annually by a qualified HVAC technician to be sure everything in the furnace is clean and in good working order. 
Only have a trained technician do needed repairs.

ABOUT CARBON MONOXIDE:
CO is an odorless, colorless, tasteless gas that is the natural by-product of combustion.  It is called the “Silent Killer,” because the victims may not know they are being poisoned.   Your body absorbs CO more easily than Oxygen, and mistakes it for Oxygen, causing illness and sometimes death.  Even low levels of CO have been shown to cause irreversible brain damage.
Some Symptoms of CO poisoning are:
Dizziness, headaches
Unexplained Flu-like symptoms
Fainting, nausea
Death
Get to a hospital as soon as exposure to CO is known so proper treatment can be administered.
Source: The Midwest Chimney Safety Council
www.midwestcsc.org

TIPS FOR USING WOOD-BURNING  STOVES, FIREPLACES, & FURNACES:
Most fires in wood stoves, fireplaces, and chimneys occur because of a lack of regular cleaning to remove creosote, which is the residue left behind by unburned fuel (ALL fuel burns incompletely). The National Fire Protection Association recommends annual inspection and cleaning as necessary by a Certified Chimney Sweep.

Don’t burn treated wood, railroad ties, trash, or colored paper since they emit toxic fumes.
Don’t burn pine trees or railroad ties since they create excessive amounts of flammable creosote and may overheat and warp your steel or cast iron appliance.  Burning Hedge is also discouraged since it burns very hot.
The best wood to burn is oak.  It is very dense and burns slowly. However, soft woods may also be used – you’ll just have to load the stove more often.
Burn your stove hot (400-700 degrees) to assure complete combustion, which is how the stove is designed to be used, and it is cleaner and better for the environment.  After establishing the fire, you should see white or clear smoke coming out of the chimney.  If the smoke is grey or black, something is wrong with the wood, your burning methods, or with the system.  .
Have the chimney checked annually (every 2 months during the heating season if used for the primary source of heat) and cleaned as necessary by a professional CSIA Certified Chimney Sweep (www.csia.org).  The sweep will remove flammable creosote, bird nests, and dead animals, and look for holes and gaps between the flue liner sections, cracked flue tiles, unparged or damaged smoke chamber, correct construction of the chimney, clearances to combustibles, and more that most homeowners do not have the training to indentify.
Follow operating instructions by the manufacturer (if applicable) to assure safe and efficient heating.
Keep combustible materials (including furniture) at least 3’ away from the appliance.
A screen should be placed in front of open fireplaces to keep embers and sparks from popping out.
Place a child guard screen around stoves to keep children from getting burned. 
Never use flammable liquids to start a fire—the fumes can ignite and explode. Use an approved gel, fatwood, or firestarter.
Remove flammable materials such as stockings from the mantel before starting a fire.
Use a metal container to transport ashes to the exterior of the home. 
Do not build large fires or long-burning fires in open fireplaces.  Fireplaces are designed for small, ambient fires only, and are not heating devices.  If you want to make your fireplace energy efficient and a heating source, have a wood or gas fireplace insert installed by a professional.
Have a heavy duty stainless steel chimney cover installed to keep damaging rain, animals, and debris out of the chimney.
If you suddenly notice that draft stops while burning a stove, a chimney fire may have occurred which makes creosote expand to many times its size and chokes off the flue.
If a chimney fire occurs, close the damper (if possible, get out of the house, and call the fire department.  DO NOT use the chimney until it has been inspected by a Certified Chimney Sweep.

HOW TO FIND A QUALIFIED CHIMNEY SWEEP
Like any other type of contractor, there are good and bad chimney sweeps.  You can greatly improve your chances of finding a qualified sweep if you follow these simple guidelines:
Look for a CSIA Certified Chimney Sweep at www.csia.org. A Certified Sweep has taken classes and testing on the methods and tools necessary to do the job correctly and knows the codes and clearances to combustibles.  He/she also has training in inspecting fireplaces and chimneys and will likely have the equipment necessary to do the job right.
Check your local Better Business Bureau for any complaints or unresolved issues the company may have.. 
If having repair work done, as for references and samples of the company’s work to review.
Ask to see certificates of insurance for Worker’s Comp and Liability.  If the sweep is not insured, don’t allow them on your property because you could be liable for any damages to your home or injuries to the sweep.
Be sure to check out the company’s website – there is likely a lot of information there for you to review.
If anything about the company makes you wary, don’t do business with them.
Other sites to visit are the Midwest Chimney Safety Council at www.mcsc-net.org and the National Fireplace Institute at www.nficertified.org.

OTHER TIPS:
Install a digital CO detector on each level of your home.
Install a hard-wired fire alarm system with an alarm on each floor and in the attic next to the chimney.
Do not leave open fires unattended.

 

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Go Green by Heating with Wood

May 7th, 2009

By Marge Padgitt

There is nothing like the warmth and coziness of a hearth fire for a comfortable evening at home. But with the increased prices of gas, many people think “energy efficient” first, and “ambience” last, and have turned to alternatives for heating their homes.
When the energy crisis hit the U.S. hard in the 1970’s, manufacturing companies answered the call for wood-burning stoves with large, heavy, and inefficient appliances. Today’s options are varied and high-tech. Manufacturers have now had over 30 years to perfect their art; new appliances are much improved over their predecessor’s, offering high-efficiency and low emissions, and appliances that use much less wood to provide the same amount of heat. Using the renewable resource of wood makes modern wood-burning appliances very Green and earth-friendly. Homeowners now have a large selection in heating options. I hope these suggestions will be helpful to you in making a decision about which type of wood-burning appliance to purchase.

The Rumford Fireplace– Designed by Count Rumford in the 1700’s, this design has not been improved on to this day. The shallow depth, curved throat, angled side walls, and higher opening, combined with a smaller flue provide much more heat than the standard “box style” fireplace. Compared to a standard fireplace, which produces –30% to +5% in efficiency (meaning most of the heat goes up the chimney), the +40% efficiency Rumford far surpasses its competitor. Recent testing shows that properly designed Rumford fireplaces, throats, and flues are very clean burning and produce low emissions. Don’t expect to heat the entire house, but a Rumford will definitely heat the room it is in and maybe more space depending on the square footage in the area.
Historic homes are perfect for utilizing the Rumford design, which looks authentic and ads ambience to the residence, but a Rumford looks great in modern homes, too.
A new method of “Rumfordizing” existing fireplaces has been developed, where a box-style fireplace is transformed into a Rumford style to gain more heat. Some masons and CSIA Certified Chimney Sweeps are employing this method. Not all masons are trained properly in this method of fireplace building, so find a qualified Rumford builder at www.rumford.com, www.csia.org, or www.midwestcsc.org. Cost range- $4,500—$8,000.

Wood-burning Stoves- Gone are the days of the catalytic combustor, since the new EPA approved “non-catalytic” appliances are extremely low in emissions. Today’s wood stoves require less wood to heat the same amount of space, and that translates into savings in the cost of wood, and in your time to load the stove. Where loading was once required every 2 –3 hours, it is now only needed every 4-10 hours. The addition of an electric built-in blower will push the warmed air through the house, but is not necessary for the stove to work.
A wood-burning stove can be installed almost anywhere, provided there is an existing chimney that can be used or an outside wall where a Class A chimney can be installed. Existing chimneys must be brought up to current standards, and this means the installation of a 6” – 8” insulated stainless steel chimney liner. The flue can only be used for the stove—no other appliances can be attached to the same flue.
Wood stoves come in a variety of styles including standard matte black or a beautiful porcelain enamel finish, and are constructed of heavy steel, cast iron, or soapstone. All stoves require a non-combustible floor and wall behind the stove, with clearance to combustibles being different with each manufacturer. The old 36” rule no longer applies with the newer models, so more usable space is available in the room. The EPA regulates woodburning stoves so be sure to get one that is EPA approved and do not use an older model. 55,000—80,000 BTU output. Cost range—$3,000—$4,500

Wood-burning Fireplace Inserts- Sister to the wood-burning stove, this appliance is inserted into an existing masonry fireplace. A correctly sized stainless steel flue liner is necessary, with a connection to the wood stove. Most flues will measure 6” – 8” in diameter—some are in an oval shape. Do not install an insert with out the required steel flue liner with ceramic wool insulation—and have a professional do the installation. If used without a steel liner, the existing flue that was sized originally for your fireplace will be too large for the new appliance to draft correctly and creosote will accumulate on the flue walls. Usually glazed or tar creosote is the type that occurs in this situation, and since it is highly flammable, it is the cause of many chimney fires.
A wood stove insert will produce enough heat to warm a large area (800—3,000 sq. ft.) , and is extremely efficient—usually in the 70% + range for efficiency ratings. Most inserts are EPA approved non-catalytic, which means that a catalytic combustor, which requires maintenance, is not necessary. The addition of an electric built-in blower will push the warmed air through the house. Burn well-seasoned hard woods and you’ll be happy with not only the heat your insert produces, but the fewer times you need to load wood. The EPA regulates fireplace inserts so be sure to get one that is EPA approved and do not use an older model. 60,000—85,000 BTU output. Cost range $3,500—$5,000.

Wood-burning Furnace/boiler – Similar to the woodburning stove, but larger and produce 80,000—300,000 BTU’s or more. Many woodburning furnaces may be installed alongside an existing gas furnace (provided a separate flue is available), or outside the home in a shed, or stand alone outside. Most furnaces have electric fans and use ductwork to distribute the heat throughout the home, boilers use the hydronic underfloor method to distribute heat.
Either a Class A stainless steel chimney is required; or if using an existing masonry chimney, an approved stainless steel flue liner is necessary. Do not use used with a tile flue liner in a masonry chimney due to danger of excessive creosote accumulation and risk of chimney fire. It is extremely important to have a professional CSIA Certified Chimney Sweep or approved manufacturer installer do the analysis of the installation area and the actual installation of the furnace and flue. This is not a do-it-yourselfer project, as there are many critical items that must be taken into consideration including size of flue, location of the furnace, distance of the connecting pipe run, type of materials used, clearances to combustibles, etc. Find an installer at www.csia.org, or ask the manufacturer for help in finding a qualified dealer. Do your homework when selecting a furnace or boiler as there are large differences in efficiency. The EPA currently has no restrictions on woodburning furnaces in most states (except California, Washington, Oregon, and Colorado). Currently, there are no 80,000—250,000 BTU output. Cost range -$5,000 – $7,000.

Masonry Heaters– Arguably the best value in heating alternatives, masonry heaters are old world technology at its best. Designed with a site-built or pre-cast heater core inside of a brick, stone, tile, stucco, or soapstone exterior, and built on site. The masonry mass will be at least 1,760 lbs. The heater has tight fitting doors that are closed during the burn cycle. It has an interior construction consisting of a firebox and heat exchange channels built from refractory components. A masonry heater has the ability to store a very large amount of heat, which means that you can rapidly burn a large amount of wood without overheating the house. The heat is stored in the masonry thermal mass, and then slowly radiates for the next 18 to 24 hours. Loading of wood is only required approximately once every 12 hours. The heater burns the wood quickly and all of the energy in the wood is used so there is no waste. The heater burns very clean, and practically no emissions are produced so it is environmentally friendly.
This type of heater, designed and used extensively in Europe, is now gaining popularity in the U.S. The initial cost is more than other types of heating, but due to the savings in energy bills that cost can be recuperated in as little as seven years. The heat is evenly distributed through the home without the use of ductwork or forced air. It is best to design the home around a masonry heater to get the maximum efficiency—homes that have large, open spaces and tall ceilings are well suited for this type of heating appliance.
Added features may be a pizza/bread oven, a heated bench, mantles, heated hot water, and wood storage spaces. A masonry heater should be built by a qualified heater-mason contractor. Find a builder and get more information about how masonry heaters work on the Masonry Heater Association of North America website at www.mha-net.org. 80,000—250,000 BTU output. Cost range- $12,000—$30,000.

Wood appliance safety tips:
 Never install a wood burning appliance in a garage or any area where flammable vapors from gasoline, kerosene, or other flammable products are stored.
 Always have a qualified, licensed professional who knows the NFPA 211 Standards and International Residential Code do the installation. Look for an installer who is NFI or CSIA Certified.
 Keep children and pets away from hot appliances with special gates and guards made for this purpose.
 Keep the chimney and connecting pipes clean and have them serviced annually by a CSIA Certified Chimney Sweep (www.csia.org) to avoid chimney fires and improve the performance of the appliance.
 Keep furniture and other flammable objects at least 36” away from the front and sides of the appliance.
 Do not burn trash, treated wood, railroad ties, colored newspaper, magazines, or pine trees in a fireplace or woodburning appliance as toxic fumes and increased risk of a chimney fire may result.
 Burn your appliance very warm to hot—this means open the damper fully, provide enough combustion air for it to function, and use dense, dry, hardwoods. Read the manual and follow the instructions for the best performance of your appliance.

Internet Resources:

National Chimney Sweep Guild: www.ncsg.org
Chimney Safety Institute of America: www.csia.org
Midwest Chimney Safety Council: www.midwestcsc.org
Masonry Heater Association of North America: www.mha-net.org
National Fireplace Institute: www.nficertified.org
Rumford Fireplaces: www.rumford.com
Hearth, Patio, and Barbecue Association: www.hpba.org

Marge Padgitt is the owner of Padgitt Chimney & Fireplace in Kansas City, Missouri, and has 25 years experience in the chimney industry. She is a CSIA Certified Chimney Sweep, an NFI Certified Woodburning Specialist and is the Educational Director for the Midwest Chimney Safety Council. She can be contacted at marepadgitt@comcast.net or 816-461-3665.

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